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Day 12 in SE Peru: Big Rain at Los Amigos

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This is my blog from the 12th day from a private tour I led down the Kosñipata Road and the Madre de Dios River in SE Peru from October 25-November 7. We'd had surprisingly beautiful weather so far, with only one day of rain, but we wanted rain. It brings mushrooms. And today we got rain.

In the early morning we saw the Undulated Tinamous that Nito told us about. There were three birds at times, foraging out in the open rather unlike tinamous.


After breakfast and early birding on the grounds, I returned to my room to get ready for the morning's hike and found this gorgeous Bridled Forest-Gecko, Gonatodes humeralis, on my porch.

Here's the extent of today's outing. Our morning goal, at the end of the red line, was to the palm swamp and lake known as Pozo Don Pedro.

On the way we came across a hyper but relatively approachable group of Emperor Tamarins. This is one of the best places to see this species.


We're at Los Amigos Biological Station on the Madre de Dios River. The Spanish acronym for the station is CICRA, which stands for Centro de Investigación y Capatación Río Los Amigos, and you can read all about it on their webistes: ACCA and ACA. We are visiting only a tiny part of the entire reserve, which is a huge conservation concession of largely pristine Amazonian wilderness.

When Susanne stopped to photograph a mushroom, we noticed what looked like a maggot. I removed a few leaves out of the middle of the trail and revealed what I think was an aggregation of sawfly larvae. Sawflies are a hymenopteran, as are ants, bees and wasps.

This metalmark is in the usually unidentifiable genus Detritivora, called scintillants. Of the 31 species listed at the Butterflies of America website, nearly half have no photos, and some of those that do are underexposed, showing no field marks. I suspect this one will remain unidentified for some time, but I do note that there is one named D. manu, certainly a possibility.

There were some very interesting mushrooms on the way. This Deflexula sprucei is in the group of club and coral fungi.

This Penicilliopsis clavariiformislooks like it might be related to the above, but it isn't; it's actually in the same family as Penicilliummold (from which we get penicillin) and Aspergillus. This one seems to grow, possibly as a pathogen, on fallen tree seeds.

One of the most beautiful tropical mushrooms is this Leucocoprinus cretaceus, which we had last year in this region as well.

And another very attractive Marasmius species.


We finally made it to the swamp, with a boardwalk reaching to the small area of open water.

My owl imitations and pishing brought in several birds, including this very bold Euler's Flycatcher.

Growing up one of the palm trunks was this orchid in the genus Vanilla. Too bad it wasn't blooming.

As we began walking back, the skies opened up and it began to rain. It poured for the next two hours, one of the more intense and long-lasting tropical downpours I've seen. It was fabulous. By 1:45 it stopped for good, but the skies remained dark and heavy. The views of the refreshed rain forest from the overlook by our cabins was good for the soul.

We set out again down trail 10 for what would be a rather quiet late afternoon walk (see the blue line on the map above). Yet our afternoon bird list still totaled a respectable 71 species. In fact our best bird of the whole trip came as we were walking towards a stand of bamboo and I heard what vaguely resembled the snapping of a White-collared Manakin display, but more hesitant. I had never heard the sound in person before, but I was pretty sure it was the bill snapping of a ground-cuckoo! We snuck forward quietly and I imitated the sound by slapping two fingers of my right hand on my left palm. Almost immediately a Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo charged at us from within the dense undergrowth! It retreated a bit when it saw us, but I continued to communicate with it, and we saw it cross the trail back and forth twice out of curiosity. When it appeared that it had finally disappeared back into the forest understory, we continued down the trail and a few yards later saw it hop off the ground and onto a low log not far off the trail. I got my bins on it this time and saw that this was a different bird – a very young and not fully grown chick! It too then vanished into the undergrowth. We were very lucky. We told Nito about it this evening, and he went back the very next morning and several times during his remaining couple of weeks but never saw them.

This pleasing fungus beetle is probably in the genus Erotylus.

The grotesque flask fungus Xylaria telfairii.

We got as far down trail 10 as the three sprigs of heliotrope that I had brought with me from Villa Carmen and hung in the understory to attract clearwing butterflies. For some reason there wasn't much action on them, but at least there was something. To give you an idea of how difficult clearwings can be to identify, consider that these two nearly identical bugs are in different genera. The first is an Oleria species.

This is Agnosia Clearwing, Ithomia agnosia. If you disregard the colors, you might notice that the venation, especially in the hind wing, is very different.

Several species of arctiine wasp-mimic moths also appreciate the pyrrolizidine alkaloids in the heliotrope.

Happy for the rain was this tiny Conspicuous Rocket Frog, Allobates conspicuus.


And by Susanne's room was this Giant Toad, Rhinella marina.

Don't call me a cane toad. European Starlings aren't called Central Park Starlings, for a place where they were misguidedly introduced, after all. I'm not marine either; Linnaeus was just a bit confused by the collector's notes when he gave me that specific epithet.


Day 13 in SE Peru: Parasitic Fungi Everywhere, or Invasion of the Arthropod Body Snatchers

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This is my blog from the 13th day from a private tour I led down the Kosñipata Road and the Madre de Dios River in SE Peru from October 25-November 7. We're at Los Amigos Biological Station for our last full day, and this morning a low, heavy overcast seems to be stratified remnants of yesterday's huge storm.

While the theme every day of this trip is natural history – today is somehow the day for Cordyceps and related parasitic/pathogenic fungi. It's something that Susanne is especially interested in, and up until now we've seen very few. But at breakfast Nito shares with us an amazing one he found the previous day. We had talked about it with him, and one of his strong interests is ants. On the leaf he brought in are two tiny ants infected with Ophiocordyceps unilateralis, each one having climbed up a tree and grasped on with their jaws so the fungus has an elevated vantage to disperse its spores once the animal has died. They're so small, we're amazed he discovered this, and I have a hard time getting an in-focus photo.

Notice how the fruiting stalk emerges from behind the ant's head.

We're off after breakfast and head down the same trail we took on our first morning; see the blog from two days ago for the full map. This time we complete the loop I had contemplated our doing the first time (in red), but after making some progress, we ended up spending most of the morning along about only 300 meters of the trail, then having to walk fast to get back for lunch. The blue loop is our afternoon hike.

Part of this morning loop isn't really an official trail, and here we had to cross a small dam.

I had fun with melastomes on the first part of the trail. This small tree with odd fruits falling to the forest floor had me confused at first, but then I noticed the leaf venation that always tells you Melastomataceae. This turns out to be Bellucia pentamera, which I had seen in bloom in northern Peru a couple years ago.


This melastome (see the veins?) is Tococa gonoptera, in the same genus as one I saw at Pantiacolla Lodge. Both have the swollen junction of the blade and petiole used by ants as a home (domatia).

And this lovely, common melastome is Miconia nervosa, clearly one that is dispersed by birds if you note the small, juicy fruits. Understory birds that might feed on it include manakins and Ochre-bellied Flycatchers. In the closeup of the flower you sort can see the other characteristic of the family, the jointed anthers.



This may look like a palm from the leaves, but it's not. It's in the genus Asplundia and is in the family Cyclanthaceae. Cyclanths are only very distantly related to palms (both are monocots), but no palm has flowers or fruit anything like this.



Insects are actually not all that abundant in the tropical rain forest, contrary to popular belief. Diversity, on the other hand, is astronomically high. So it's always surprising that I can find a name for anything here. This assassin bug (or corsair, according to Bugguide names) is Rasahus arcuiger.

I don't think there's any hope of getting a name for these tiny gnats dancing above a single leaf next to the trail about head-high, but they were fascinating, constantly bouncing up and down, probably in some kind of mating display.


The diversity and abundance of fungi in the forest here is reflected in so many members of the pleasing fungus beetle family. This is an Erotylus sp.

This jumping spider was on my tripod.

One of my Flickr contacts is studying owlflies (or owl flies, take your pick); he isn't sure of the species of this member of the genus Amoea, but it may be A. iniqua. Owl flies are closely related to antlions. Or is it ant lions?

I've seen this grasshopper, Copiocera sp., only once before.

We found this grasshopper, an Episomacris sp., not too long after Susanne spotted one of the best finds of the day.

As I was getting down and dirty for closeups of a mushroom, I nearly bumped into this same species of grasshopper, but this one was dead and had been long infected with a fungus. It may be Cordyceps acridophila (which means “grasshoppper-loving”), but I don't know yet if we can confirm the species.

So with the introduction from Nito this morning, we had our search image set on these amazing (but probably terrifying from an insect's point of view) mushrooms. This one looks like the fruiting body is coming out of the belly of a beetle larva. Funny thing, though – I don't think we recognized the larva in the field, thinking that the whole thing, so uniform in color, was the mushroom that had broken off the host, still stuck inside the rotting wood. In this photo, the abdominal segments (tergites) of the perpendicular section are pretty obvious, as are the jaws on the head at the top. The white blob is a completely unrelated fungus that happens to be fruiting next to the larva, and the black may be yet another fungus, or perhaps a slime mold.

Then I spotted this coming out of some rotting wood, and Susanne thought it might also be a cordycipitaceous fungus.

Indeed, after carefully breaking apart the wood, I pulled out the entire beetle larva. This one is apparently in the genus Ophiocordyceps. And like the previous one, it emerges from the larva's belly.

Later in the day, we found this Ophiocordyceps australis sticking out of the leaf litter. Careful digging unearthed its victim, a large ant.


Again, like the one Nito found, notice how the stalk emerges from behind the ant's head.

There were lots of “normal” mushrooms too, but my favorites are the delicate-yet-tough members of the huge genus Marasmius. I especially like the pink ones.

Marasmius sp. 1

Marasmius sp. 2

Marasmius sp. 3

This funky mushroom is a Xylaria species.

The “gills” on this Schizophyllum commune are lovely. Susanne tells me this world-wide mushroom typically grows in rotting wood, but it has been found also as a respiratory pathogen in humans.

This is a Cymatoderma species.

A Favolus species.

Finally, we did see some animalia. This female leafwing has a brilliant blue upper side. Phantes Leafwing, Memphis phantes.

This Black-spotted Skink, Mabuya nigropuncata, was sunning on the deck by the dining hall.

I've spent a fair amount of time trying to identify this robber frog (genus Pristimantis), but it's a very tough group. I think the photo shows the flank color and dorsolateral folds that point to P. toftae. But to be sure, relative toe length, belly color, and pattern and color of the rear surface of the thigh should be noted.

The overcast sky gradually cleared over the course of the day, and our afternoon walk past the open skies of the old, overgrown airstrip coincided with good soaring weather. And that's where I barely got this photo of a migrating (or perhaps already arrived, locally wintering) Broad-winged Hawk.

This Red-necked Woodpecker is my only decent bird photo from the day; we spent some time watching a pair at very close range, and it's always a very impressive bird.

A loose group of Brown Titis was foraging and whooping it up right by our cabins.


A mother with her baby.

This is a slime mold, not an animal, but also not even a fungus; it is more closely related to amoebas. In fact, fungi are more closely related to animals. The only similarity to fungi is that it has a phase in its life cycle where it forms spore-bearing fruiting bodies, and this is probably transitioning to that stage from its usual single-cellular life. But if you consider that the Platypus and garter snakes both lay eggs, and that humans and rattlesnakes both bear live young, you'll understand that similarities in reproductive strategies are often only coincidental.


My final find for the day was this Southern Turnip-tailed Gecko, Thecadactylus solimoensis, in my room.

Day 14 in SE Peru: Farewell Travel Day

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November 7, 2014:

Both of us sorry to leave so soon, Susanne and I are ready for a 6:30 a.m. departure by boat for our day-long ride to Cusco, from where we have a flight to Lima. Once in Lima, I will have a layover plenty long enough for us to have a farewell dinner at the very nice restaurant in the hotel across the street. The only thing we're really looking forward to today is the amazing food there.

This is the dawn view from the overlook right in front of our cabins, looking westward over a large bend in the Madre de Dios River, to a setting full moon.

Our trip takes us back upstream to Boca Colorado, but we're leaving 23 minutes late because they discovered that our boat had a leak and they have to move the motor, hundreds of pounds, to another boat. It's 3 hours and 15 minutes for what took us just over 2 hours going downstream a few days ago. From there we load into a taxi, drive for an hour to another river, get on a boat taxi to the opposite side, and then meet our car and driver from Cusco, who drove six hours overnight to get here this morning on time.

Six hours, no problem (and we've been told it takes that long as well) – we'll have nearly two hours to kill at the Cusco airport. We stop for a half-hour lunch in the town of Quince Mil (Five Thousand, but 5000 what, I wonder). Our only other stop is for a quick potty break and photos of some amazing scenery. I had no idea we'd be passing over a pass at 4750 meters (14,385 feet), or that we'd be going right past the Cordillera de Vilcanota and its peak Ausangate (6,384 meters, 20,945 feet).


But we did have to stop for multiple road construction projects, a turned over bus that was being pulled out of the way by a wrecking crew, and were slowed down by having a Toyota Hiace that traveled uphill like the Engine that Could. Then almost panicking as we drove into the knot of congestion that is Cusco at rush hour, our drivers got lost for about 5 minutes trying to navigate a huge construction zone. We finally pulled up to the airport less than 15 minutes before departure, too late to check our luggage at the counter. We had to race all of our luggage upstairs and through the security zone, which meant giving up our pocket knives (but somehow everything else we had carefully packed away in our checked luggage was ignored), check it in at the departure gate, and we were actually sitting quietly in our seats, heart rates slowly lowering to normal, for nearly ten minutes before the plane pulled away from the gate. There's some more I could go into about our physiological reactions to having been brought from near sea level to such an altitude in just a few hours, but I'll leave it with the sad note that we did not feel so much like enjoying that farewell dinner that we had been looking forward to since breakfast. We forced ourselves to eat something, downed a pisco sour (because we're in Peru), and started thinking about the next adventure.

Of Sinaloa Wrens and Neotropic Cormorants

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A short visit from one of my oldest friends from Oregon, Alan Contreras, was a perfect excuse to go birding. We planned to go birding a bit Thursday morning, followed by a small homemade pizza and wine party with a few friends of mine, but a howling gale kicked up, as forecasted, Wednesday night and continued all day Thursday. So we postponed birding until yesterday. Here's Alan on the right, with friends DuWane (you can see his hands), Jack, Manabu, Andrew, and Hal enjoying the pizzas they each made.

Without too much difficulty we found our primary target, this Sinaloa Wren, along the Anza Trail south of the town of Tubac.

This bird is one of only two individuals of this species known to be in the United States at this moment, and the species first occurred in this country just six and a half years ago. Up until then it was known strictly from Mexico, but breeding was known to occur as close as 30 miles from Arizona, and several people suspected it would eventually show up here. The scenario explaining its arrival – as well as its rarity here – is rather easy to surmise, and very closely matches that of Black-capped Gnatcatcher and Rufous-capped Warbler. Each species has its own precise habitat requirements, but all three are common, non-migratory residents in western Mexico well up into northern Sonora where their habitat is continuous but comes to an abrupt stop not far south of the US border. North of there one is met with higher, drier elevations as well as the increasing influence of temperate weather systems. But bits and pieces of their preferred habitats do occur to the north, once you get over that last ridge and drop into the uppermost stretches of the Santa Cruz-Gila River drainage on our side of the border and find yourself in the most protected and well-watered canyons and riparian areas. So when individual birds at that bleeding northern edge of the continuous, appropriate habitat are forced out of their natal territories to go set one up of their own, only to the south will they find more habitat. But they don't know in which direction to disperse, and any that try to wander north will find themselves in uncomfortably open, exposed situations, probably unable to find food or hide from predators. So they probably just have to keep moving. Many of these dispersing birds probably die, but some, perhaps those with just a bit more wanderlust than the average, get lucky and find those pockets of habitat in Arizona.

The first Sinaloa wren was found along Sonoita Creek in Patagonia on August 25, 2008 by Matt Brooks and Robin Baxter, and that bird stuck to that territory for at least 15 months. The bird that Alan and I saw yesterday was found by David Stejskal on September 11, 2013, and theoretically could be the same bird that gave up on finding a mate in Patagonia and wandered about 30 miles downstream to its current location. But unless it's singing, most birders would overlook this bird, and it's even possible that four or five are living in obscurity up and down Sonoita Creek and the upper Santa Cruz River.

The second bird known from the United States was found on April 14, 2009 by Diane Touret in Huachuca Canyon, near Sierra Vista. Many birders reported not being able to find it after April 18 that year, and with the Patagonia bird being easier to find, few birders ever returned to Huachuca Canyon. But Ron Beck and friends found one in the same general area on September 2, 2013 – just 9 days before Dave found the one by Tubac. And it should be mentioned that both of these birds were discovered because they were singing. Each could have been there for months (and it only seems obvious that the Huachuca Canyon bird had actually been there, undetected, for the previous 3 years and 4 ½ months), but perhaps the species has a quiet period during the mid-summer months, with an upsurge in singing activity in September.

Bird activity was actually pretty high along the 50-yard stretch of the Santa Cruz River while Alan and I walked back and forth hoping to get good views of the wren. I had birded this spot last April with my friend Anthony Collerton (but missed the wren then), and on the very same power poles then was probably this very same Common Raven who seemed to be uttering what I would refer to as a “song.” Here's my recording of it:

As Alan and I drove back north to Tucson to bird some other areas, I mulled around in my mind what spots might be interesting, and almost at the last minute decided on Sam Lena Park, also known as the Keno Environmental Restoration Project (KERP). It used to be merely an unmarked, unfenced, and untended catchment basin for runoff, and in the late 1990's was a fabulous place for birding. Then the city decided to “improve” it, and while there has been some recovery, access is limited, with fences and warning signs, and it just isn't as attractive as it used to be (plus, it's a 9.5-mile bike ride from home, and back then I owned a car). Nevertheless, there is a lake that is largely visible, and any body of water in the desert has potential. The first surprise as we arrived was the largest group of Neotropic Cormorants I have ever seen in southern Arizona. I counted 70, amongst which was one Double-crested. This appears to be a recent influx, with other eBird reports from the past few weeks mostly being fewer than 30 birds. This is a recent phenomenon that is only three years old – the arrival of dozens of Neotropic Cormorants into the Tucson area during January and February, when they now far outnumber Double-crested Cormorants. A quick check of eBird data for the months of January and February show a few were here in 2010, but in 2009 and 2011 none were reported.

We birded along the edge of the reservoir and the inlet arm, first coming across this pair of Greater Roadrunners. The male seemed to be trying to impress the female with his blue, white, and red postocular skin exposed and engorged with pigments.


We pished and tooted a few times, bringing in Orange-crowned Warblers, Yellow-rumped Warblers, Anna's Hummingbirds, a scarce Tucson city-limit Hermit Thrush, and this colorful Cassin's Vireo.


When we returned to the car, the cormorant flock had been joined by this Snowy Egret, a very scarce bird here in the winter, with only three having been spotted on the Tucson Valley Christmas Bird Count.

Butterflies and Birds of SE Peru Take 1

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I’ve just completed a wonderful WINGS tour of butterfly and bird watching in the Kosñipata Valley of SE Peru, which I co-led with Jim Brock. Here’s Jim with a Comnena Jewel, Perisama comnena, on his hat.

This is just a short teaser of some highlights, as there is lots to share about the trip. We started with a short stop at a very high pass on the dry side of the Andes, a couple hours’ drive north of Cusco.

It’s often cloudy and cold here, but with a little bit of sun in this windswept hill, Jim spotted a butterfly he had been hoping to see for years, an obscure but delightful satyr called Argyrophorus lamna, which we dubbed the Silver Puna. The upper side of the forewing shimmers silver in flight.

Over the next days we then progressed down the wet, forested slope of the relatively low ridge starting at Acjanaco Pass where one skirts the upper edge of Manu National Park, and ending at Villa Carmen at Pilcopata – at the terminus of Kosñipata River where it joins the Tono, Piñipiñi, and Pilcopata rivers to form the Upper Madre de Dios.

We spotted about 480 species of butterflies, among which were several that we couldn’t identify. Many of the unidentifiable ones were clearwings, but this one we were able to name as Oleria athalina.

And this little-known False Purplewing, Sea sophronia, remained unidentified until we had internet access at the end of the tour. This photo represents the first record from the valley, with the list now well over 2100 species.

At Villa Carmen we experienced the mother of all puddle parties, a 100 meters of gravel bar on the Piñipiñi that had over 100 species of butterflies in just about 2 hours of searching. An almost unheard of experience, we had excellent looks at all four species of Baeotus here, including this Orange-banded Beauty, Baeotus deucalion (the orange band is above; the other three species have blue bands).

We saw and heard about 340 species of birds, a great number considering that after about 9:00 each day our focus was largely towards the ground. This memorable Andean Motmot was particularly cooperative at the Cock of the rock Lodge.

These Plumbeous Kites were perched over the gorgeous, brand-new cabins at Villa Carmen.

Not unexpected with a group that is into butterflies and birds, interests gravitated towards almost anything winged, especially if it was pretty. We were delighted by the sparkling ultraviolet wings of this Cora damselfly at a mid-elevation stream.


And this lavender-booted arctiine moth Palaeomolis purpurascens was one of hundreds of species at our lodging at Wayqecha Biological Station one night.

Tucson Moths in February

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We've had a very mild, if unusually moist, winter in Tucson, and while the mothing at the porch light has been not been anything like during the monsoon, I still am checking it every evening.

This moth is Idaea bonifata, given the English name Fortunate Idaea, and is one of the smallest geometrids in North America. This individual wasn't such a fortunate find, however. It flew out of my kitchen cupboard, and the larvae are known to feed on decaying leaves and...stored grains. So I better get around to cleaning out my kitchen cupboard.

At the porch light was this Rindgea cyda, the Mesquite Looper Moth. Looper is another name for inchworm, also geometrids. Not a surprise here, as we have many mesquites in the yard.

While house-sitting at my friends' house in NE Tucson, I found this similar moth, and it actually appears to be exactly the same species – just a very variable one.

Yet another geometrid at the light was this Iridopsis dataria. It's a rather large genus with many confusingly similar species, but the thin, straight black line on the hindwing (as opposed to wavy) as well as the coppery-brown strips just below that black line and on the forewing look like good field marks to hone in on.

It seems that February is the month for geometrids. This is Synchlora frondaria, Southern Emerald Moth. The emerald moths are the “classic” inch worms, subfamily Geometrinae.

Finally, this last moth is still in its pupal stage. I dug it out of the ground by my back patio while removing an old chaste tree (monk pepper tree), which was always struggling with a lack of water and had put on a sum of about 2 feet of growth in 17 years. At 52 mm, naked (not in a cocoon), and with that prominent proboscis, it's clearly a sphinx moth, and is almost also certainly one of the individuals that defoliated and eventually killed my tomato plant last year while I was away on tour. Both Manduca sexta (the Carolina Sphinx, also called Tobacco Hornworm) and Manduca quinquemaculatus (the Five Spotted Hawk Moth, also called Tomato Hornworm) will feed on tomatoes. I put this one in a jar with some dirt and will see what emerges.

An Elegant Crescentchest from Peru

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A new WINGS tour this coming early Julyto northwestern and north-central Peru promises to be a really great tour for a couple reasons. First, it's being led by Fabrice Schmitt. Fabrice is a really fun leader to go with, and he has extensive guiding experience in Peru. Second, I'm scheduled to co-lead it with him! But that will only happen if enough people sign up for it, so I'm going to make a few blog posts to highlight some of the amazing things I've seen on my three trips there.

There are only four species in the distinctive and enigmatic family Melanopareiidae, all restricted to South America. They were once placed with the tapaculos, but skeletal characters, and now solid genetic data, prove that they have nothing do to with tapaculos. The current checklist sandwiches them between true antbirds and gnateaters, suggesting that they are more closely related to one of those families.

I had seen my first, the Olive-crowned Crescentchest, in the highlands of central Bolivia in 2000 with Dan Lane. Two years later, I saw my first Collared Crescentchest in Noel Kempff Mercado National Park, also in Bolivia, with Brian Gibbons.

With current taxonomy, Bolivia, Peru, and Ecuador are the only countries that can claim two species within their boundaries. But the subspecies pallida of the Olive-crowned Crestcentchest, found in the Chaco region of Bolivia, Paraguay, and Argentina, sounds so different that it will surely be split when someone gets around to writing a proposal to the checklist committee. That would make Bolivia the only country with three species.

My first trip to this part of Peru was a personal trip with my friend Alan Grenon in July of 2010. On that trip I saw my first Elegant Crescentchest, and on the very next day completed the family with the Marañon Crescentchest. We have a very good chance of seeing both in July.

This series of photos of an Elegant Crescentchest were at the Chaparrí Reserve in northwestern Peru on the scouting trip I took in November-December 2011, my second to the area. Fabrice's tour stays here for two nights.

Butterflies of Chaparrí Reserve

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As long as I'm blogging about Chaparrí Reserve in northern Peru (where Fabrice Schmitt and I are scheduled to lead a WINGS tour), here are some of the butterflies that I saw there in early December 2011.

This region has a very pronounced dry season, supporting an isolated TDF – Tropical Deciduous Forest. It is isolated in the north by the wet Chocó region, in the east by the Andes (topped by the moist cloud forests on the ridges, though the TDF of the Marañon Valley is very close), and to the south by the Atacama desert. There are a lot of widespread TDF species and genera (among plants and animals) that occur here and this Pale Cracker is one of them, occurring north into the Caribbean. But the subspecies here, Hamadryas amphichloe lamasi, appears to be endemic to Peru and probably also Ecuador.

This blue is in the genus Leptotes, like our familiar Marine Blue. It looks most like Leptotes trigemmatus, the type specimen of which is from the rather distant Chile. Leptotes lamasi, from the nearby Marañon Valley, is much closer distance-wise but doesn't look very similar. Some variation in the pattern is possible, but it's also possible that this is an undescribed species.

This skipper is in the very large (55 species) and confusing genus Staphylus, known as sootywings, some as scallopwings. This is closest to S. huigra.

This brave or determined hairstreak is Strymon daraba, endemic to this region of Peru and Ecuador; it's possibly interested in laying eggs on this lantana, but the host plant is unknown.

The widespread Lantana Scrub-Hairstreak, Strymon bazochii, on the other hand, is well-known to use lantana as a host plant, but this one is imbibing nectar from this composite (note the unusually large phyllaries, one of them perhaps aberrantly exceeding the ray flowers in length; this reminds me of Zexmenia, but there's also the closely related genus Oyedaea, which I'm not familiar with).


This Red-crescent Scrub-Hairstreak, Strymon rufofusca, is known to use mallows as a host plant in Mexico, so I presume it was searching for nectar on this plant, which I think is a Croton species.


Bathing Hummingbirds of Chaparrí

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It's been a while since I have gone over all of the photos from my December 2011 visit to Chaparrí Reserve in northwestern Peru. There are a lot more than I thought, so I'll post a few more blogs from there in order to help promote the WINGS tour that Fabrice Schmitt and I are scheduled to lead this coming July.

The stream that flows through the middle of the property separates the communal buildings and dining area from the cabins, connected with a foot bridge. Just below the bridge is a point where you can sit and watch hummingbirds come in to bathe.

This one is a female Purple-collared Woodstar.

Amazilia Hummingbird is one of the more widespread species from western Ecuador southward.



Tumbes Hummingbird is not a very colorful species, but it is endemic to this region, barely getting into SW Ecuador.






Here are some shots of the funky, but surprisingly nice rustic cabins they've constructed in this remote reserve.




Some Chaparri Criters

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Continuing the theme from my previous posts, here are some photos of the critters I saw in 2011 in the Chaparrí Reserve in northwestern Peru.

Actually, first some photos of the area. This is a view of the cabins, looking across the small stream that divides the property.

For someone who loves to cook and eat, I have amazingly poor food memory, so I'm really pleased that I snapped this shot of the food.

I was here with a small group of tour operators as guests of PromPeru, the national board of tourism. So I did do some activities with them as a group. We were here in the dry season, and it's doesn't seem they had had a very good wet season in 2011.


Happily, I had plenty of time off to wander around on my own and see some nice animals. This Culpeo, Lycalopex culpaeus, has become quite habituated to people.

The perennial stream is a huge boon to wildlife, especially during the driest times. This appears to be a male of the very widespread Band-winged Dragonlet, Erythrodiplax umbrata.

But without any regional field guide to the odonates, I haven't been able to get names for everything I saw there. This dragonfly may also be an Erythrodiplax, and bears some resemblance to the female of the above species, but is indeed different.

Damselflies are even less known. These two are dancers in the genus Argia, possibly the same species, the upper one a male, the lower a female.


Bee flies, family Bombyliidae, are always fun to see – this is a group that could certainly stand to have field guides. They often perch, have field marks, and are only half as diverse as birds worldwide. Yet there doesn't seem any hope of getting these two to species.


There are five or six species of fish native to the stream here, and though I don't normally “do” fish, the clear water of the stream and very isolated nature of this stream suggested they might actually be known species. And with help from my friend Rob Williams, I have names for them. This one is the Characid Brycon atrocaudatus, closely related to the Matrinxã, a very popular edible fish in Amazonian Brazil.

This colorful fish is a Cichlid and appears to be the Peruvian endemic Andinoacara stalsbergi,  described to science only two years before my trip here.


Finally my favorite, the only snake I saw on the entire trip: the viper Bothrops barnetti.

Some Plants from Chaparrí Reserve

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If you haven't been keeping up on my blog the past week or so, I've been trying to bring attention to the WINGS tour to northern Peru that I'm slated to lead with Fabrice Schmitt this coming July. Tell your friends about it. 

I'm on my way to Costa Rica right now (though a bit waylaid due to Turriabla spewing stuff into the air that jets are apparently allergic to). I'll have plenty of blogging material from Costa Rica, assuming I get there, but in the mean time I have just two more blogs to share from the delightful Chaparrí Reserve, where the WINGS tour will be staying a couple days in July. Before I get to some of the other birds, here are the plants that I photographed there on my stay in early December 2011.

I don't know what they all were, but this being a tropical deciduous forest, many were at least somewhat familiar. The dry season is quite harsh here, which does limit the species diversity, at least locally. One could hike for an hour into the hills and diversity would explode, but the plants that are adapted to these lower elevations are fascinating.

Some are quite familiar. This appears to be a palo verde, Parkinsonia praecox, which is native north to Sonora, not far south of the Arizona border.

I thought this tree resembled members of the caper family, and indeed it is sometimes placed in the genus Capparis. But the most current name for it seems to be Colicodendron scabridum. The big fruit is apparently edible and is eaten by the Senchuran Foxes and Spectacled Bears.



Another plant that looked vaguely familiar was this flower, which I thought was a Cordia species. But upon closer inspection, those dense, globose flower heads and five, finger-like sepals under the flowers look rather un-cordia like.

This one reminded me of Ayenia, and looking into that family (formerly Sterculiaceae, along with cacao, but now that whole family is part of Malvaceae) I was led to Byttneria, probably B. parviflora.

It was surprising to see even some smaller flowers in bloom, but most were near the stream. The very open, flat shape of this morning-glory flower makes me think Evolvulus, but there is also the similar genus Jaquemontia.

A couple flowers in the family Acanthaceae caught my eye. This one is a Tetramerium.

This is a Ruellia.

Finally, I thought this last pink flower was also an acanth, but now I'm not so sure and think it might be a scroph, which would mean now that it's in the plantain family (Plantaginaceae, nothing to do with bananas). Or maybe it is an acanth...



Some Birds of Chaparrí Reserve

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White-winged Guan is one of the reasons that Chaparrí Reserve exists (the other being the Spectacled Bear). Endemic to just NW Peru, it's one of the rarest birds in South America, as pressures from habitat loss and hunting nearly wiped it out. So a program to release captive-bred birds was started here. Soon they were seeing more of these marvelous birds than they had released, including adults that couldn't have been offspring, confirming that some did still exist here. A super tame bird like this one that I photographed in December 2011 may very well be one of the released birds, but this far into the program, and ten years since the last release, third and fourth generation birds from this very successful program are being seen. The largest single population of the species is in these hills, and it's estimated that 250 wild bird exist.

Not so rare is the Andean Condor. If they had had as much lead ammunition here as we do in North America, it could very well have gone extinct by now.

I spent most of the time looking for birds in the denser woods at the lodge and along the stream, but the entrance road with it's more open, desolate desert had some interesting birds.

This is where we found Sulphur-throated Finch as well as flocks of these Parrot-billed Seedeaters.

Once at the lodge there was plenty to see. This is a Baird's Flycatcher, closely related to Sulphur bellied Flycatcher.

A Collared Antshrike, one of the specialties of drier SW Ecuador and NW Peru.

What to call this one? Golden-bellied Grosbeak? Southern Yellow Grosbeak? Or the current SACC name Golden Grosbeak, changed just a year or so ago?

The cute Gray-and-white Tyrannulet is in its own genus (Pseudelaenia) and doesn't seem to be closely related to other tyrant-flycatchers.

Long-tailed Mockingbird is a conspicuous bird here.

As is the gorgeous White-tailed Jay, which comes to feeders.

Pacific Parrotlets fly around in little twittering flocks, feeding on seeds in the weeds and trees.

The tiny Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher, actually showing its rusty front (the front in birds is the same as forehead – the feathering between the bill and the crown).

Sooty-crowned Flycatcher is endemic to the dry forests of western Ecuador and Peru.

This bird is called Tropical Pewee by current AOU/SACC taxonomy, but it's one of the more obvious errors committed by the deaf lumpers of the past century. The IOC does split it, calling it Tumbes Pewee, but there's more work to be done there, as two or three of the remaining subspecies of Tropical Pewee are obviously not conspecific, with utterly different vocalizations.

The Tumbes Sparrow is a regional specialty, and one of few true “New World Sparrows” in South America. It was once together with a bunch of ours in Aimophila, but it and the southern Stripe-capped Sparrow are in the new genus Rhynchospiza.


My favorite here was the White-headed Brushfinch, another New World Sparrow, closely related to our towhees.

My First Rough-legged Tyrannulet in Costa Rica

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Today was my first full day guiding my 19th tour (20th trip) in Costa Rica. We've gotten off to a rather disjointed start. Since Volcán Turrialba blew a big cloud of ash that drifted right over San José and its international airport on Thursday mid-day, all flights were canceled for a day and a half. I was stranded in Fort Worth for two nights, while one participant was stuck in Houston, and the other in Phoenix. I got in yesterday afternoon, one participant should be arriving around midnight tonight, and the last one won't catch up with us until tomorrow afternoon. Makes life interesting.

We were in the Cerro de la Muerte area all day, birding around Savegre Lodge and the Providencia Road. The highlight for me was my first Rough-legged Tyrannulet in Costa Rica, finally. My first ever was just in Brazil a little over a year ago, but it seems that these are quite likely two different species. This one would be called either Zeledon's or White-fronted Tyrannulet if they are split (which the IOC already does).

It was mostly sunny with lots of butterflies, but few would sit. This Pale-banded Gemmed Satyr, Cyllopsis philodice, finally did.

A pair of Long-tailed Silky-flycatchers are nesting right outside our rooms. The male seem to stand guard most of the time.

I spotted this orchid blooming next to the road and made Ricardo stop so we could look at it. Marino, the owner of the lodge, tells me it is in the genus Telipogon, and it is one of the few orchids that can be found blooming during this time of year. August is the main season for orchids.

In the late afternoon we had some good finds, but three Spotted Wood-Quail that were not threatened by our presence just a few feet away sat next to the trail and preened each other.

Not a bad day.



From the Field Costa Rica 1

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A quick report from my ongoing tour of Costa Rica:
 

We arrived at Monteverde this evening for a two-night stay, meaning our 13 days of birding in Costa Rica were half over at noon today. We've already had almost too many amazing bird and wildlife encounters to remember, but we're snapping lots of photos to keep track. At Cerro de la Muerte we briefly disturbed three Spotted Wood-Quail next to the trail, but then they settled down almost right away for a preening session right next to the trail. Rarely are these birds so confiding.


Then we discovered some great things in the far southwest at Bosque del Rio Tigre. While we were watching a Squirrel Cuckoo gathering caterpillars over the road, one of the group noticed something large moving in the grass on the roadside. Out from there emerged this Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth, slowly crossing the road right in front of us.



Most of the group took a short hike up a forested stream bed to see this most gorgeous little Gulfo Dulce Poison Dart Frog.


 

Near the town we found this Gray-lined Hawk, only recently split from the northern Gray Hawk, and this was also a first for me in Costa Rica.

 

Today we birded Carara National Park for a bit, where one of the most memorable sightings was a pair of Red-legged Honeycreepers feeding on the bright red arils of the open fruits of huevos de caballo, a member of the dogbane genus Tabernaemontana.

 

And after lunch at Ensenada Lodge we spotted some good mangrove specialties (Northern Scrub-Flycatcher, Mangrove Vireo, and Mangrove Warbler), but a highlight for everyone was this roosting Pacific Screech-Owl with two fledged young perched right above it.

From the Field Costa Rica – More from Bosque del Rio Tigre

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Here's another quick update from Costa Rica. Today we arrived in the Arenal area, with tons of fun sightings, but since the previous blog was part of my From the Field post to the WINGS website, I tried to keep it short, leaving out some highlights from Bosque del Rio Tigre lodge on the Osa Peninsula.

It's a short walk down a forest trail from the lodge to a small pond where a pair of Boat-billed Herons breeds. One one day, the two fledged juveniles were perched perfectly visible from the trail, one of them in a very comical sitting position.

Just outside the kitchen in the main lodge building is a little cleared area where they scatter a bit of rice. Seeing a Little Tinamou is nowhere as easy as here, and we were lucky to see at least three individuals. Other things coming to the rice included Blue and Ruddy Ground-Doves, a Dusky Rice Rat and a Tome's Spiny Rat.

Paltry Tyrannulet is perhaps the most widespread bird in Costa Rica, found at more elevations and habitats than even Clay-colored Thrush or Great-tailed Grackle. But this is the first time I've spotted a nest. In this photo, you can see the two birds in the upper right, and I've drawn an arrow at the entrance to the nest where we watched one bird carry some moss.

I recognized this lovely terrestrial orchid from a trip I took to Alagoas, Brazil eight years ago. It is Sacoila lanceolata, and it turns out to have a very large range that even includes Florida.


This little metalmark is the common but very difficult-to-find and photograph Guianan Jewelmark, Sarota gyas. It is only about eight millimeters in length. This male (note the four functional legs; females have six in metalmarks) was on his territory at the late hour of 12:40 p.m. – sitting on top of leaves and flying out to chase intruders right in front of the lodge.


Preening Spotted Wood-Quail

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Here's a video of the Spotted Wood-Quail we had at Savegre Mountain Lodge early on my ongoing Costa Rica tour.

Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant

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Just one photo from Costa Rica today, though I have lots. Long days, lots of birds, and many other cool critters have made this a good tour.

Today we birded La Selva Biological Station, seeing over 100 species of birds, most of them along less than 3 miles of trails. One was this Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant, one of the smallest passerines in the world at 6.5 cm. It was carrying food to a nest, a messy sock of fibers hanging below a philodendron leaf about 4 meters above the trail.


We have two more days left in the tour, and maybe I'll find time to post a few more photos from the past days.

Costa Rica Blog for March 21-22, 2015

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I last left off when we arrived in Monteverde, and now we have just one more day left on the tour. Time has flown.

It's been amazing to have virtually no rain on the tour. On one afternoon at Savegre we had a brief shower when we pulled out our umbrellas for about 10 minutes. Then we drove through an isolated shower on our way to the Osa Peninsula. We all awoke to a brief shower here in the Caribbean lowlands at Sueño Azul Resort the night before last, but otherwise it's been sunny, but overcast in afternoons, and not too hot. Perfect birding weather. My own bird list for the trip has reached 460 species in 12 days, and it's hard to stay caught up with lists, photos, and research. Here are some photos from our day at Monteverde and our travel day to Arenal Observatory Lodge.

At Monteverde we began with two resplendent Resplendent Quetzals right at the parking lot. I was the only one to see the Buff-fronted Quail-Dove on the trail as we started to head into the forest, but three of the participants had seen one up at Savegre Lodge a few days ago. Not far down the trail I spotted an orchid growing on a rotten log in the understory, and as usual I stopped to smell it, and it was heavenly. One of the group has a highly trained nose, and he declared it was of ethyl vanilla, and I thought it smelled like a roll of freshly opened Necco wafers. My Costa Rican contact Mario Rosas quickly identified it from my photos as Prosthechea vespa, a new one for me.

Not far after we passed the orchid, two different pairs of Prong-billed Barbets began duetting, one just back down the trail, but by the time we got there, they had gone quiet, and no one was spotting any movement. We stood there for at least five minutes, searching all the branches, hoping they would move or vocalize, and I noticed this huge shelf fungus growing on a tall snag in the mid story.

As I scanned it my eyes fell on the shape of this gorgeous Prong-billed Barbet right next to the trunk. Later its partner began excavating a nest on the left side of the stump, not far below the fungus.

Our hike took us all the way to the continental divide, unusually visible, but typically windy.

I'd love to know more of the plants here, but the diversity is daunting. The gesneriad (African Violet) family is well-represented here, especially the genus Drymonia. I think this one is D. lanceolata.

On the way back down a activity wave of birds coincided with us and another birding group working their way up the road. The birds included some very close Three-striped Warblers, an Eye-ringed Flatbill, and at least two Orange-bellied Trogons. This species is flanked on nearly all sides by the red-bellied but otherwise identical in every other respect Collared Trogon. I don't know how much intergradation there is, but I suspect a lumping might be in order here.

We made the usual stop at the Hummingbird Gallery for the seven of the expected eight species of hummers (we did not see any Green Hermit), including Purple-throated Mountain-gem and Green Violetear.


The morning we left, four of us got up extra early to try for owls, and we scored two pairs of Mottled Owl.

Before leaving the area we spent a couple hours at the Santuario Ecológico where we enjoyed the amazing, rich velvet duets of Rufous-and-white Wrens and had a fabulous experience with this Chiriqui Quail-Dove.

Our next destination, largely to break up the drive all the way to the Sarapiquí region is the touristy-filled Arenal Volcano area in the Caribbean Foothills, a transition region between the Cordillera Central and the Cordillera de Guanacaste. We stopped for this photo looking at the western flank of the mountain (which stopped erupting regularly four years ago), and then drove to our lodge on the southern flank.

On the way we surprised a male Great Curassow in the road. They have increased in numbers greatly in Costa Rica since I first started guiding here 18 years ago.

This female Hercules Beetle (Dynastes hercules) was crossing the road. My driver Ricardo spotted it as he straddled it, stopped the bus, opened the door, and told me to go get the beetle in the road. One of my participants is fine with snakes, but she really didn't like having this exceedingly slow beetle, mouth parts free of any biting apparatus, inside the bus.


It seemed to be a day for beetles. It's been too warm and dry for moths, it seems, and the lights at Arenal Observatory Lodge aren't quite bright enough, but I did find just these few beetles at one light along the driveway.

I'm pretty sure this one is a soldier beetle, family Cantharidae.

This is a click beetle, family Elateridae.

This tiny thing is in the obscure family Ptilodactylidae, the toe-winged beetles, with just 500 species worldwide.


Finally, I actually found a name for this gorgeous longhorn on the New World Cerambycidae Catalog website, and it's quite clearly Sibapipunga beckeri, a monotypic genus.

A Full Day at Costa Rica's La Selva

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Our last four days in Costa Rica went by in a flash yet at the same time seemed to be as full of experiences and sightings as the first nine days. On these days we were on the more lush Caribbean slope, first in the foothills of the Tilarán range, which are something of a transition zone from the Central range and the Guanacaste range of volcanic peaks. We spent a full morning near the Arenal Observatory Lodge, and our pre-breakfast walk was surprisingly successful (being in a patch of secondary forest adjacent to over-manicured gardens), with a family group of Song Wrens (the male singing his fascinating song that alternates so rapidly between short, pure whistled tones at varied pitches and harsh chuckling phrases that it seems two birds must be singing at once), a Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush, and a pair of Spotted Antbirds being the main highlights. The porterweed in the gardens attracted several hummingbirds including our only Black-crested Coquette, a female. We also stopped to take pictures of this flowering bush in the dark understory, and my guess as to the caper family (with its brush of many stamens) led me to the name Capparidastrum discolor.

On our late morning walk, the only bird photo I managed was of this Great Curassow in the crown of a tall tree, where it had been singing its nearly subsonic humming growl, making it very hard to locate.

We also had our best views of a beautiful male Scarlet-thighed Dacnis in a small fruiting tree just off the trail (made especially beautiful by its direct comparison to the utterly drab Ochre-bellied Flycatcher also feeding from the fruits), and a pair of Buff-rumped Warblers countersang, probably reaffirming their territorial boundaries right along the trail. So wrapped up in his business, one came with in a few feet of our group several times, and the ringing song at that close range was almost painfully loud. Sometimes I’ve had to resort to using playback to bring one of these birds closer for even brief views, but this was by far a more satisfying experience.

We had the next full day at La Selva, the famous research station of the Organization for Tropical Studies. While it was bustling with students and a few independent researchers, it’s also a magnet for groups of ecotourists, especially birders, who pay an entrance fee as well as for a local guide, the help from whom I’ve never been disappointed in. We arrived before La Selva officially opened at 7:00, which fortunately put us at the right spot at the right time to see seven gorgeous male Snowy Cotingas gathering in three trees on either side of the entrance drive, posturing, giving short display flights, and displacing each other on branches. About the size of an American Robin but chunkier and with a shorter tail, this oddly silent bird (especially odd considering that some members of the cotinga family are among the loudest of all birds) is special for being one of very few all-white passerines in the world.

This visit we were accompanied by Joel, a very good birder who has worked here for many years as a guide and a field biotech for researchers. He asked me where we had been in Costa Rica and which birds we hadn’t seen yet, and when I mentioned Rufous Motmot, any puffbirds, tinamous, and quail-doves, he chose to take us down the STR, a wide, paved path with good views of the understory as well as lower areas of the canopy. But we didn’t get far, as the bird activity near the bridge was high. Collared Aracaris were coming into the fruiting bushes just a couple feet away, impatiently hoping we’d move on, while a large group of Crested Guans walked nonchalantly nearby and our first Crowned Woodnymph and Black-cheeked Woodpecker foraged in another tree. These two Crested Guans were just a couple trees farther along, possibly part of a big extended family.

The Queen Mary Bromeliads, Aechmea mariae-reginae, were in full bloom this year, mostly high in the trees, but this one was below eye level from the vantage point of the foot bridge crossing the Sarapiqui River.

We moved on down the trail, stopping to marvel at leafcutter ants, millipedes, and the occasional bird. Not far down the trail, Joel stopped to show us large holes dug into the dirt banks on either side of the trail where he thought Rufous Motmots might be currently nesting. Sure enough, a few steps farther, he spotted this giant of motmots perched motionless in the midstory.

Chrysomelidae is a huge family called leaf beetles, and the subgroup known as tortoise beetles are particularly attractive. This one is Ischnocodia annulus and has been called the Target Tortoise Beetle.

If it weren’t for Joel, we might have walked right past this Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant. I had heard one in the canopy earlier, but ignored it, as seeing one of the world’s smallest passerines is almost impossible when they are singing from the tallest trees as they usually do. But this one was bringing food to a nest, a hanging pouch dangling from the petiole and hidden behind the blade of a large philodendron leaf just 10 feet above the trail.

Belonging to Costaceae, one of the families in the ginger order (and strangely unknown in the temperate zone even as a house plant or ornamental), this is Costus malortieanus.

Another bird I had mentioned to Joel as one missing from our list, Black-throated Trogon appeared in spades.

Recognizing the cauliflorous fruits on this vine as a member of the family Sapindaceae (looks reminiscent of ackee, with a bright aril meant to attract dispersers) helped me find the name Paullinia fasciculata on the Digital Flora of La Selva website.

We then took a narrower trail back for lunch, hoping for more understory birds. Joel was pointing out an active nest of a Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift on a huge tree trunk overhead (which I failed to photograph for some reason, except for maybe because it paled in comparison to the one I found with Jake, Paul, and Steve in northern Peru last May) when one of the tour participants noticed this small Eyelash Pit Viper just below (my) eye level an arm’s reach from the trail. It is indeed venomous, apparently with a very potent venom, but it is not an aggressive species, and strikes seem to be very rare considering how common it is and how easy it is to overlook. It’s possible that the species is reluctant to strike in defense unless really bothered –  every one I have ever seen has remained utterly motionless and probably has no reason to believe it’s visible. But we were warned to remain at least as far as most of its body length. It uses only the very last loop of its tail around the branch as an anchor and can strike at a distance of a the remainder of its body length.

This is a refuse pile of Atta colombica, the Surface-dump Leafcutter Ant.

Rubyspot damselflies of at least two species were here and there along the trail, hunting from the tips of leaves at eye level. La Selva has several species, and I’m guessing that this one is a male Hetaerina titia. Joel said that expert odonatologist Bill Haber had just been here, updating the La Selva species list, even discovering a new species of damselfly in the process.

After lunch back at the main center for lunch, we took a short break when I shined my headlamp into a small hole in a dirt bank right by the gift shop. In it was this Yellow-spotted Night-Lizard, Lepidophyma flavomaculatum, which retreated deeper in before I could get a photo better illuminated by my flash.

This vine in the family Marcgraviaceae is Souroubea gilgii, normally attractive to honeycreepers and hummingbirds, but it remained bird free and merely beautiful while we were watching.


Also during our break I found this Passiflora auriculata passionflower, which surprised me by being wonderfully fragrant, like chocolate and strawberries. Most passionflowers have no smell, and some are even foul smelling.

I was amazed to see this female Fasciated Antshrike and her mate at eye level in the bushes by the gift shop, so far from the canopy where I’ve spent many neck-breaking minutes trying to bring one in with playback. Like a few other birds we saw here, they were on a foray out of their usual element to collect nesting material.

We took another walk back in the forest, finding a pair of Broad-billed Motmots.

This Gray-waisted Skimmer, Cannaphila insularis, was perching in low vegetation right next to the trail.

Joel took us to a tented leaf where these amazing Honduran White Bats were roosting. They had been using it for about two weeks by now, and we were among hundreds of people who had seen them, one by one. The leaf was only about four feet off the ground, well visible about ten yards from the main trail, but a narrow path had been worn to it where one could carefully walk without unduly shaking the surrounding vegetation, kneel and look up under the leaf (unfortunately placed directly below a very bright hole in the distant canopy, making a good photo impossible). The tiny 1 ½-inch bats had created the tent by biting along either side of the central vein of the leaf. Many species do this, but I had seen this one just one previous time,  and I think it was my first visit to La Selva in March 1998.

One last photo from La Selva is of this spider lily relative, Crinum erubescens, growing along a narrow stream in the deep forest understory and visible from a short foot bridge.

Sueño Azul Rancho Hotel Birding

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We saw enough cool stuff during just one morning, one afternoon, and on a couple night walks at our Sueño Azul lodge to warrant its own blog. It’s an active cattle ranch, but with brushy, regenerating pastures, many remaining old trees and small patches of forest connected to larger areas of extensive foothill rainforest, as well as strips of trees along two small rivers and a series of small ponds, it has an extraordinarily high diversity of birds. For example, after our full morning and early afternoon at Braulio Carrillo National Park (a couple photos from which I’ll post in the next blog), we had seen and heard 59 species, many of them very good ones. But in just 2 late afternoon hours on the entrance drive and grounds of our lodging, we had added another 72 species, for a day list of 131 species!

One of the birds we had been looking for was this Canebrake Wren, mistakenly lumped with the Plain Wren by someone unfamiliar with the species in real life in some decades passed, a mistake puzzlingly perpetuated by the AOU to this day. It doesn’t take a genius to realize that two birds that look and sound different, occupy different habitats, and have an adjacent but non-overlapping distributions are different species. This one really is one of the plainest of all wrens, living in low-lying, moist thickets of fern and grass on the Caribbean slope. The nominate group of true Plain Wren, which we had seen near Monteverde, sports a lovely buff wash below, lives in dry, brushy, and viney areas, and sings a song twice as fast and so much higher that even the most tone deaf of birders can tell the difference. Anyone but an early 20th-century ornithologist confined to the museum would fairly assume that the birds can hear the difference as well.

This easily overlooked bird is a Plain-colored Tanager, often hard to see in fast-moving flocks in the canopy. We got to watch this one at length just past the fence gathering nesting material in a brush pile. It somewhat resembles Palm Tanager (and I once overheard a professional guide misidentify one of those as this species) but lacks any hint of color on the crown and has an entirely dark wing, including the wing coverts (Palm Tanager has oddly contrasting dark flight feathers, with wing coverts that match the color of the scapulars and back).

At breakfast from this location we watched Gray-necked Wood-Rails on the lawn, Green Ibis flying over and babbling in Portuguese (even here they say coró-coró, which is their Brazilian onomatopoetic name), and spied Fasciated Tiger-Herons feeding in the river. In the top photo, our driver and excellent birder Ricard is helping to scan for Sunbitterns while a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron can barely be seen up to the left of center.

This Broad-winged Hawk, probably having spent the night here on its way back from, say, the Owlet Lodge in northern Peru, was sunning itself before continuing its journey north, perhaps to Maine.

We took a walk into a strip of forest that is connected to larger areas of forest. We saw Crowned Woodnymph here, perhaps after having fed from this Columnea nicaraguensis, an epiphytic lipstick vine and member of the family Gesneriace blooming over the road.


We had great views of a pair of Royal Flycatchers and White-collared Manakins, and then when we reached another clearing heard an awful screeching of a raptor which I couldn’t place or locate with my eyes. When one participant said he saw something whitish move deep in a tree, I knew he had spotted a White Hawk. Soon we were watching two of these glorious birds perched in a large, leafless tree, and later they soared in tandem in the same skies where we had just seen King Vulture and Double-toothed Kite.

Right by our rooms was this handsome male Green Basilisk, Basiliscus plumifrons, one of three species in the genus we saw in Costa Rica.

This is the gecko we commonly see and hear around lights in the lodge anywhere in the tropics. It is Common House Gecko, Hemidactylus frenatus, which I confirmed by grabbing one and examining the arrangement of scales on its chin. I also took a close-up of the strange toe pads that allow it to run up and down almost any surface, even upside down. It turns out that the cellular structure of the toes harness the mysterious laws of molecular physics to allow it to do that.


We took two short evening walks and one early morning walk for owls here. The first was successful for spotting a Kinkajou in an open Cecropia tree, and even better was this Ring-necked Coffee Snake, Nina sebae. We also heard a distant Vermiculated Screech-Owl and an even more distant Great Potoo.

The second walk was utterly bird-free, but we were delighted by this Central American Woolly Opossum right over the trail.


The final morning walk was at first also void of owls, and we called it quits just as it was getting light in order to have some coffee. Ricardo then heard a Spectacled Owl from the parking lot where we had been not 15 minutes earlier. It was rapidly getting light, but the owl was still responsive, and in about 10 minutes we were having great views of it very close to where we had seen the opossum the night before.

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