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A Chiapas Teaser

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Just last Saturday I had a very enjoyable day in San Francisco with my friend Clayton. We bought lunch at a market and ate it in Mission Dolores Park.

Two days later I was having lunch in a café in San Cristóbal de las Casas in a slightly different atmosphere but nearly identical temperature.

Tomorrow I lead my first of four field trips for the fourth biannual meeting of the Gay Birders of North America group – an informal email list and Facebook group that has been around for a decade or more. For the past five days I’ve gone scouting with several of the other field trip leaders, and it’s been a blast. Here’s a teaser of some of the amazing stuff we’ve found, much of which I still haven’t identified.

Very cool mushrooms

Gorgeous lizards

Rose-bellied Bunting among about 236 other bird species

Melanis pixe, Red-bordered Pixie among almost hundred butterflies that we tried to identify

A bizarre plant hopper

And many, many cool plants. This is the wet season, everything is lush and green, and flowers abound. I’m pretty sure this milkweed vine is a Gonolobus species.


Hopefully I find the time and energy in the next days to share more of what we’ve found while scouting as well as some highlights from the field trips.

Day 1 of the GBNA Chiapas Field Trips

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Today I led the field trip of 10 participants to the Coapilla and Tapalapa Ejidos of north-central Chiapas. This area of lush cloud forest is a little-vested by naturalists, and we had high hopes for some of the specialties of the area, such as Resplendent Quetzal. We didn’t find any of those, but we did see Black-throated and Azure-hooded Jays, Green-throated Mountain-Gem, Highland Guan, Ruddy and Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaners, and Black-headed and Spotted Nightingale-Thrushes among several others. We also had one unexpected and exciting discovery.

We were watching this fuchsia bush (Fuchsia arborescens) for some time, trying to get good looks at a Green Violetear and a White-eared Hummingbird. This Flame-colored Tanager came in once to dine on the fruits.

To get the hummingbirds to move from their hidden perches, I tried imitating Guatemalan Pygmy-Owl, and this Mountain Elaenia popped up. It kept moving around, making it difficult for everyone to get on it, and I eventually started wondering how unusual a bird it might be for here, since I don’t remember seeing it on the study lists. The short story is that there areno records for here – not for this ejido, not for Chiapas, not even for Mexico! I used playback of recordings from Costa Rica and two birds came in quite excited, and I was able to get a couple more photos and some faint recordings of the call notes. A first country record!

The weather wasn’t all that great – overcast, windy, and occasionally drizzly, but it eventually got warm enough for some butterfly activity.

Diaethria anna, Anna's Eighty-eight

Autochton vectilucis, Central American Banded-Skipper

Smyrna blomfildia, Blomfild's Beauty

These strange little membracid plant hoppers were on the undersides of a Bocconia leaf.

One of the participants is an orchid specialist, and he recognized the genus of this one. Image searches suggest it is Govenia matudae.

On the way back we stopped on the road for Acorn Woodpecker, Clay-colored Thrush, Eastern Bluebird, and Chipping Sparrow in the road, only to discover that they were there because of a swarm of the small army ant Labidus praedator.

What an odd mix of species to attend an army ant swarm, but even more unusual was the habitat!

One last stop to stretch and break up the long drive brought us Varied Bunting, Altamira Orioles, Varied Bunting, and this Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl.

This Gray-crowned Yellowthroat posed very nicely below us.

My friend Paul spotted this grasshopper nymph on a leaf.


This Hamadryas glauconome (Glaucous Cracker) had staked out a territory on a power pole by the vans.

Mountain Elaenia Confirmed First For Mexico

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I led a second field trip to Ejidos Tapalapa and Coapilla today, and my main goal, besides just finding lots of cool birds for the participants, was to re-find the Mountain Elaenias and get better photos and recordings.

We scored on all accounts. Here is my best and most diagnostic photo of the Mountain Elaenia, and here is also one of the recordings I obtained.
Mountain Elaenia


I actually heard a third bird down the road from this same pair we had yesterday, and then later in the morning found a fourth individual well up the road. So it seems there is a very isolated population on this one mountain. I’ve queried several people now, and all agree that this would be a first record for Mexico – 212 miles from the nearest eBird submission in Guatemala.

I didn’t get many bird photos today, but we did have excellent views of Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, Brown-backed Solitaire, Black-throated Jay, and Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush. Some of us also saw Blue-crowned Chlorophonia, Blue-and-white Mockingbird, Blue-throated Motmot, and many others.

This Mountain Trogon female was being wooed by a male who would not give us decent views.
Mountain Trogon

We flushed a Slate-throated Redstart off its nest, which had two eggs.

We had some nice butterflies, including Adelpha donysa, Donysa Sister

Anetia thirza, Cloud-forest King

And Catasticta flisa, Narrow-banded Dartwhite

There are some pretty amazing plants up here, from this tiny Castilleja sp.

To this giant Gunnera sp.


Tomorrow I lead the field trip to Sumidero National Park.

Sumidero Canyon National Park

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On my fourth day of leading field trips here, I did the nearby Sumidero Canyon, allowing me to sleep in a couple more hours. The nearly sheer faces of the canyon down to the Grijalva River reservoir offers one of the most impressive geologic vistas I’ve ever seen.

The birding here is interesting, with some dry forest and humid forest things, as well as some local specialties, such as this Bar-winged Oriole, the only one we saw.

A very scarce and local bird in Mexico is the Blue Seedeater, and this singing bird was in the same place where Michael had it yesterday.


Yet another specialty here is the odd but pretty Belted Flycatcher.

There are lots of orioles here, the favored host of Bronzed Cowbird, so one sees them all along the road.

At our last stop a lively Canivet's Emerald came in to my Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl imitations.

We saw lots of other cool things. This wooly caterpillar will eventually become a probably drab moth.

This tiny black metalmark was one of about seven that were only briefly landing on the upper leaves of a small tree, then taking off and chasing around others, sometimes all together in a whirring ball of energy. When they landed, they opened the wings flat to grab the morning sunlight, and this is all we saw; they matched nothing in the field guide.

So I sent the photo to Jim Brock who recognized it as a Sarota, and he reminded me we had seem some do this at Cristalino Jungle Lodge seven years ago. The vast majority of the time they are encountered, they perch on lower vegetation with their wings closed and look like this, my photo of Sarota myrtea, White-cheeked Jewelmark from SE Peru.

One of the participants spotted this stunning green grasshopper at the canyon vista, a nymph of the very diverse genus Melanoplus. Thanks to my contact Ricardo Marño-Pérez for the ID.

Also at the canyon vista was this Chlosyne theona, Theona Checkerspot.

What looked like a scar on a tree trunk turned out to be a group of roosting 15-cm long morpho caterpillars – perhaps White Morphos. During the night they climb to the canopy to feed on foliage, then retreat before sunrise to avoid birds that prey on them.

This leaf-mimic katydid with a horn on its head is reminiscent of the genus Copiphora, but the flattened legs and odd behavior suggests it might be something different. While slowly walking it swayed to and fro, much like an American Woodcock. This is surely a tactic to avoid notice by a bird, such as a trogon, who might take it for a swaying leaf.

On a later afternoon stop we encountered the mother of all puddle parties. I estimated 20 species of butterfly in this one group.

Most of them were Chlosyne erodyle, the Guatemalan Patch or Erodyle Checkerspot, like the one in the lower left, but I got only a couple photos of those I didn’t recognize right away. This unusual medium-sized satyr is Taygetina kerea, Kerea Satyr.

This boldly marked skipper is Antigonus corrosus, Small Spurwing.

It’s been a pretty good trip for orchids. Thanks to my contact Gerardo Salazar, who is working on a book of orchids of Mexico, I now know this as Dichromanthus cinnabarinus. It looks very similar to a couple other unrelated orchid genera that have independently evolved to attract hummingbirds as pollinators (such as this Sacoila lanceolata), which we know thanks to an amazing research paper that looked into the genetics by Gerardo and others.

Gerardo also identified this orchid as a rarely seen Triphora debilis, which was growing right in one of the trails. Even Gerardo has never seen one live, and the university museum where he works at UNAM even lacks a specimen!


By the way, Eric, who led the Tapalapa field trip today, came back with a report of as many as six Mountain Elaenias.

Arriaga and Puerto Arista, Chiapas

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For my last day of leading field trips for the GBNA meeting in Chiapas, I was assigned to take my group for Rose-bellied Bunting (that’s the official AOU name; many people prefer Rosita’s Bunting, but I think that follows the traditional, sexist practice in old-school ornithology of using a woman’s first name rather than her last name) and Giant Wren, two local endemics in the region.

Rose-bellied Bunting is surprisingly common in the humid patch of forest on the pacific-facing slope of the middle elevations of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec. Inland from here (north, in this case), the forest is too wet, tall, and tropical. Lower down towards the coast the forest is too dry. East and west on the Pacific slope at this same elevation, the inland mountains are much taller and the land mass much broader, blocking the moist Gulf of Mexico airflow, resulting in forests that are also much drier and thornier, not what this species needs. After Yellow-green Vireo, it was the most common bird here, and it was nice to be able to see birds without using playback.

I thought that seeing this male grab and then eat a green stick insect was pretty unusual (a blurry photo in the limited very early morning light), but it turns out that the previous day’s field trip led by Michael Retter saw the same thing.

Orange-breasted Bunting is also common on this stretch of road above Arriaga, but it prefers to be down lower where the forest is drier; there are a few kilometers where both buntings occur together.

The rest of our day was spent on the flat, sparsely-wooded coastal plain of Chiapas. Here we found what Steve Howell has named “Ridgway's Flycatcher,” long considered a well-marked subspecies of Nutting’s Flycatcher (at least in the museum tray), but shown by him to have a clearly distinct set of vocalizations (more like Panama Flycatcher, actually) and habitat, and occurring with just a few miles of typical Nutting’s Flycatchers. The AOU committee on taxonomy and nomenclature did not accept the suggested split, mostly because none of them have personal experience with these birds and don’t spend enough time getting to know them in the field. While it’s true that a scientific paper showing the consistent differences would be good to have, I have little doubt that if the committee members had had extensive field experience with these birds, they’d all recognize that this split is a total no-brainer and that they’d see a peer-reviewed paper to be unnecessary.

The very local but common Giant Wren was our main target, and while we easily saw just this one family group, we heard at least three others in different directions at the same time.

Their chortling duet or chorus is quite amusing. This recording is from my first visit to this area almost 10 years ago.

We had a pair of Citreoline Trogons in the same location.

Being flat and near the coast, this area is also relatively wet, with many ponds, channels, and mangroves. This pond had Northern Jacana, Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, and Bare-throated Tiger-Heron.

A close-up of a Northern Jacana, showing its long toes.

We had a great auditory experience with two Ruddy-breasted Seedeaters countersinging from opposite sides of the road at very close range. One was an adult male, the other a young male in a female-like plumage.

Then rather have our third lunch of rather boring tamales and juice from the back of a bus in the hot sun, I made the suggestion of sitting down in a palapa on the beach to have a cold beer or soft drink, and everyone was on board with that.

In fact, everyone ordered from the menu, with shrimp and fish being popular. I ordered fish tacos, even though it was not on the menu. But it turns out that the Isthmus of Tehuantepec is not only a biogeographical barrier, but also a culinary one. This is what they brought me; even our driver, originally from Mazatlan, laughed at how ridiculous they were.

It was refreshing to just sit in the ocean breeze, but some people, like Kristie, just couldn’t sit still until she got wet.

This Willet walked by as we were having lunch.


Next blogs will be from Brazil!

Boa Vista to Tepequem

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I’m currently leading a short 11-day, 12-night private tour with Susanne, the same mushroom and natural history-loving client who was with me in SE Peru last October and November. We’re in this northernmost state of Brazil because this is where the rainy season should be in full swing. That’s when mushroom should be at its best.

We flew from Manaus to Boa Vista, then drove north through partially wooded to very open savanna habitat, dotted with lakes.

The general shape of the landscape reminds me of the prairie pothole region of the Great Plains, but a glance at the plants instantly erases the comparison. This pond in particular was like nothing I had seen before, the center occupied by a thicket of a tall-stalked aroid that could be a Xanthosoma.

We made one serious birding stop at the crossing of the Rio Uraricoeira.

We progressed not more than 50 yards down the road in 80 minutes with not a break in the bird activity in mid-afternoon, 32 species being my count.

We soon saw a pair of Black-crested Antshrikes, the more colorful one being the female.



This Ruby-topaz Hummingbird looked black no matter how much I overexposed the shot.

Green-tailed Jacamar

Mouse-colored Tyrannulet

We saw one of the specialties of this location, the Hoary-throated Spinetail.

Of course there was more than just birds. I was excited to see this Dalechampia species, a vine in the euphorbia family.

Then I noticed this caterpillar, probably a butterfly, feeding on the leaves – almost certainly a specialist.

I thought this flower looked like a Clerodendrum.

We made stops on the way for only important things, such as this Red-footed Tortoise.

I hadn’t seen Gray Seedeater since I was in Venezuela in February 1999.

And I don’t get to see the adorable Pearl Kite all that often either.

The best stop of the early evening was for this Giant Anteater. It was just about to cross the road; we came to a stop just past it, and I watched it out my passenger seat window just a few feet away. By the time we turned back and I could get my camera out, it had already begun its retreat back under the fence and then slowly worked its way out into the field.


We're going to be on the Serra do Tepequém for two full days, then a week at Viruá National Park. Internet may be iffy, so it might be a while before another post shows up here. 

Serra do Tepequém

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We’re headed to Viruá National Park today, we might not have internet for a week. So quickly here are some photos from the past two days.

A view from the steep south slope of the mini-tepui of Tepequém, looking to the west, towards Venezuela.

Gilded Barbet. When we go to Virua, the replacement species there should be Black--spotted Barbet.

We’ve seen lots of other birds and some great fungi, but the most interesting thing was under a piece of wood along the trail – an odd ant nest (incidentally co-habited by a large spider that disappeared under the structure before I could get its picture.


The ant nest structure appears to be the fungus garden of a small-colony species of leaf-cutter or harvester ant. It was very fragile. Maybe an ant specialist will be able to comment on it after I send some photos around.

Viruá National Park, Roraima to Cuiabá, Mato Grosso

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The eight days at Viruá National Park with my client-friend Susanne whizzed by in a flash. Each day was full of very cool sightings, and I continued to learn bit-by-bit about the mushrooms. As I expected, internet was not reliable there. As it turned out, I was able to connect using advanced secure web proxy settings provided by the staff there, but it still gave me only rare access to anything other than Facebook, and even then it would often prompt me for the user name and password on the average of once every two seconds. So I didn’t try that often.

I have many great photos of so many cool birds, bugs, plants, and other things, but maybe the most unexpected and delightful discovery was of Gray-legged Tinamous, the first for the park and the state of Roraima. I heard this bird very distant one day and shrugged it off as too far to really tell what I was hearing. But the next day it was much closer, and it was very clear that I was hearing a tinamou that was unlike any I had ever heard. It wasn’t any tinamou on the list of park, the only one of which I didn’t already know was Red-legged Tinamou, a bird I was hoping to at least hear. But I had a recording of that species in my iTunes library, and it wasn’t even close. Luckily, three things coincided: it was easy for me to mimic the whistle, the understory of the forest in this location was relatively open, and the bird was uncommonly responsive. I recited the visual marks as it approached within a few meters and I recorded its song; the grayish blue legs were the first thing I mentioned, as I was really hoping to see red legs. I managed some blurry photos in the dark understory.

A look in the field guide from van Perlo quickly led me to Gray-legged Tinamou as the only match, as the description of the voice was pretty conclusive. But with my iTunes library having over 29,000 recordings of bird voices representing more than half of the world’s 10,000 species, I had no example of the ultra-local and little-known Gray-legged Tinamou. So my guess was still tentative until Facebook communications with my friends Alex Lees and Andrew Spencer confirmed the identity of my recording as that species. We eventually heard two others, seeing one of them well, and getting a really nice recording of one, which I’ve uploaded here to xeno-canto.


This area is still not that well known, as birders first began to explore here only in 2001. But a major paper was published just last year with 14 authors providing a comprehensive bird list from the national park and adjacent areas, and no mention was made of this species. But there are three other species that I detected that would be new for national park, though not as well documented, and maybe better left for future visits. One was Orange-breasted Falcon, a calling bird that flew over the forest with something in its talons, a second was a probable Rufous-winged Ground-Cuckoo that I heard only by bill snaps on our last morning, and the third would be one of the larger, browner Chaetura swifts that are all but impossible to identify in the field. (Probably Chapman’s Swift, but who really knows the true distribution and seasonal movements of Sick’s and Amazonian, not to mention Chimney, which surely also occurs here but not this time of year?)

Yesterday, Susanne and I flew from Boa Vista to Brasilia, where we said our farewells, and I continued on to Cuiabá (and she on to São Paulo), where I have two full days to try to catch up with photo sorting, labeling, and uploading; emails; and preparing for my upcoming tour in the state of Mato Grosso. Americans unfamiliar with Brazil might not appreciate the size of this country and the huge differences in landscape and climate in the distances we covered. My flights yesterday, for example were roughly the distance equivalent of flying from Tucson to Chicago and from there to New York City – but keep in mind that we crossed the equator, traveling from the middle of the rainy season to the end of the dry season.

Here’s a view looking westward as we passed over the Amazon River about 150 miles downstream from Manaus, where the Rio Uatumã and the Amazon combine to form a waterway about 20 miles wide.


Chapada dos Guimarães

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July 31-August 2, 2015

My group of seven participants arrived on July 30, and on the 31st we set out for 15 days of amazing  birding and natural history in the marvelous state of Mato Grosso, Brazil. We started with some productive birding in the mid-day heat at some ponds in the dry woodlands north of Cuiabá where there were many White-faced and Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks, Brazilian Teal, and an Anhinga.

But our real birding began the next morning with a full day at Chapada dos Guimarães National Park.

This Burrowing Owl greeted us in the short, scrubby woodland that harbors several special species.

We flushed several Coal-crested Finches soon thereafter, but this flat-headed Southern Caracara was the only bird there that stood for a photo.

We gradually picked up most of the specialties of this habitat, including the Chapada Flycatcher, White-banded Tanager, and this loud duetting White-rumped Tanager.

I hope for but never expect Collared Crescentchest, let alone one that sits up so boldly like this one.

We had the late morning at our lodge, where this Chalk-browed Mockingbird fed on a fallen papaya.

This carpenter bee-like insect inspected my tripod by the dining area. I suspect it is indeed a carpenter bee.

White-eyed Parakeets were seen in large flocks flying over in all areas and at all time of day, but we were lucky to have a pair of them perched close by at one point.

We tend to ignore Southern Rough-winged Swallow after seeing a dozen of them, but when one perched nearby so boldly, I couldn’t resist a photo. The yellowish belly, tawny throat, and the pale rump are some of the features that distinguish this species from Northern Rough-winged Swallow.

The adorable Brown Jacamar is a scarce bird anywhere, but there’s usually a family group or two at our lodge Pousada do Parque.

A flowering shrub along the lodge’s entrance drive was particularly attractive to many butterflies, and I eventually identified this one as a Eueides vibilia (Vibilia Longwing), first assuming it was a crescent that was mimicking a longwing.

While looking for more butterflies, I looked down near the ground to see some movement, which I slowly recognized as a snake. This probable Chironius sp. (a very confusing genus), was probably hunting lizards in the late morning heat.

We had lunch at one of the national park’s most visited sites, the Cachoeira do Véu de Noiva. This translates to the painfully trite Bridal Veil Falls.

In the late afternoon we drove to another part of the national park surrounded by cotton fields, and the fallow fields here are home to some large and very attractive birds. Greater Rheas were not shy here.

And we  had several Red-legged Seriemas walking without much concern near the road. These strange birds seem to be a cross between a bustard and a secretary-bird, but are really nothing like either. There are two species in the entire family and order (Cariamiformes), both found only in South America.

On the way back, a grass fire by the roadside had attracted this Aplomado Falcon.

And this Savanna Hawk was drawn to the abundant food near the flames.

This view from the edge of the mesa is known as the Centro Geodesico – it’s very close to the geodetic center of South America.


From here we fly to Alta Floresta for a week at Cristalino Jungle Lodge. I can’t wait! Here’s our view of the Chapada dos Guimarães landscape not long after taking off from Cuiabá.

First Day Back At Cristalino Jungle Lodge

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August 2-3, 2015


Here is the view as we arrived in Alta Floresta. Forty-five years ago, when I was born, this was all still pristine Amazonian rainforest. Ranchers, settlers, and above all gold miners were encouraged by the Brazilian government to transform it beyond recognition. But this is progress.

We had one night in the Floresta Amazonica hotel where we saw a few species that area harder at Cristalino, including Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper and Crimson-bellied Parakeet. Amazingly, the introduced Tropical House Gecko has made it all the way out here.

We started early on our transfer to Cristalino Jungle Lodge to bird the open country and the forest on this (the west) side of the Teles Pires River.  The open country allows us to see more widespread species well without having to strain our necks, as exemplified by this close Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet, a bird we would just hear while in the forest understory.

A fun surprise was this White Hawk (Black-tailed hawk when they get around to splitting it) , next to the road.

Once we were nearly to the contiguous rainforest, we stopped for a King Vulture, who was accompanied by Black Vultures, followed by this rarely seen Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle.

Some scat from an unknown mammal on the roadside attracted this sister, Adelpha capucinus.

We did some birding on the lodge grounds once we arrived, but  even before we got to the common area, we were distracted by the abundant butterflies. This Ruddy Daggerwing was perched right y the boardwalk to the floating deck.

I couldn’t resist taking a night walk our first evening. Just by the guide dorms was a underground colony of termites which emerge from a tiny hole in the ground only at night and dismantle dried leaves and twigs for their nest. I imagine they have a pretty complex nest below the ground surface.

Our First Full Day at Cristalino – Tower II, Francisco’s Bird Bath, Bugs, and Bats

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August 4, 2015

We have our five full days here at Cristalino Jungle Lodge planned out, morning and afternoon outings written down on the white board in the leaders office in order to not overlap with the many other tourists here. This is our morning on Tower II, the one completed in early 2011.

We had a fun morning here, with great views of Spangled Cotinga, Paradise Tanager, Kawall’s Parrot perched close, a fabulous close troop of Curl-crested Aracaris, and a chance to look down on a Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin. The only birds close enough and in the most perfect light for my camera were these courtship-feeding Blue-headed Parrots.
Blue-headed Parrot by Rich Hoyer

We birded the 900-meter (0.6-mile) trail back to the lodge, where this most cooperative of all Pavonine Quetzals perched not too high for several minutes. There’s very little light in the forest understory, so I actually had time to switch my camera to my tripod (changing the metal plate from the scope), and configure it to a low ISO and very slow shutter speed with a timer on the shutter release.

When we got back to the lodge, it was time to take a look at the butterflies on the beach. A wonderful puddle party of sulphurs and many others had gathered.

This is one of the several kinds of eighty-eights, Diaethria clymena.

The gorgeous Doxocopa zunilda, Zunilda Emperor.

Then just a short ways down the path was this handsome Yellow-footed Tortoise, Chelonoidis denticulata, the first I’ve seen here in a while. Apparently it’s been hanging around here for a few days.

During the break after lunch, I spotted these apparent dog-like bats, Cynomops sp., roosting in the little telephone house.

I then checked the Phenakospermum by the old kitchen and found these Uroderma  sp. tent-making fruit bats right where I had left them last year.


I also walked down the Taboca trail on my own, wanting to see the destruction from a microburst that felled a big swath of forest last September. The damage was amazing, but it holds promise for all the birds and animals that need that kind of disturbance. I saw lots of butterflies but taking pictures only a few. This Calycopis sp. hairstreak may never be identifiable to genus.

This metalmark is probably Euselasia hygenius, typically landing upside down under a leaf.

A very common metalmark along many of the trails at Cristalino is the lovely Semomesia croesus.

In the afternoon we went to Francisco’s bird bath a hundred meters into the igapó forest downstream, and we saw some great birds – but too dark and too fast to get photos. They included the recently split Xingu Scale-backed Antbird and a pair of local Bare-eyed Antbirds, among several others. While we were sitting and standing very quietly behind a palm-leaf screen in the coming evening darkness, a heard the heavy buzzing of a crepuscular skipper darting around the group. I quickly placed a white tissue spit was on a vine behind me, and in landed this ruby-eye skipper, Thracides cleanthes.

Finally, we did a short night walk to the secret garden, first looking at the lights along the pathway to the restaurant. This is where I found this ghost moth in the family Hepialidae, a very primitive and relatively small family. This one has been identified as Phialuse palmar. John Grehan has an amazing website on the family at http://johngrehan.net/index.php/hepialidae/.

This is a tailless whipscorpion, an arachnid of a different order than spiders or scorpions, one I never fail to see on the trails here.

This ichneumonid wasp (notice the very long ovipositor) was sleeping on the side of a tree.


We also saw the Azara’s Night Monkeys a couple of times, and while looking for a very close Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl (which we never saw), I spotted this unknown bat hanging by one foot very high in a tree. It’s probably a fruit bat, next to a fig tree that is just becoming ripe, but the super high ISO setting erases many details that would be needed. I thought the distinctive hooded color might give it away and am still hopeful I might eventually get a name for it.

Day 2 at Cristalino Jungle Lodge – Birding the River, Forest Trails, and the Secret Garden

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August 5, 2015

We started early today as usual (5:00 a.m. breakfasts are the rule here), but we didn’t set out immediately for any trails or the river – we birded from the floating deck for a while, and this Gray-necked Wood-Rail was our reward. It’s a common bird, and one we’ll see easily in the Pantanal, but it’s always nice to see one here on the Cristalino.

We then set out for a trail upriver, but I planned to make stops for any birds and wildlife we might see along the way – there’s no rush to get to a dark forest rail first thing in the morning. Just a few hundred meters upriver from the lodge was one of the group’s most wanted bird, Sunbittern.

We watched it pace back and forth on some rocks in the river for at least 10 minutes before we got a good view of it in flight. I managed to get one blurry shot that shows the stunning wing pattern.

We also stopped for a Red-throated Piping-Guan on a rock, which was soon joined by a second bird.


We then walked a forest trail for the rest of the bulk of the morning.

It’s hard work to get good views of birds high in the trees, but we did see some great ones. In any event, there’s always lots of other things to look at. What looks like a black scab on a dead branch is actually a mushroom, or perhaps more correctly a compound mushroom in the genus Camillea.

This looks like a clearwing butterfly but is actually a metalmark mimicking one, Ithomeis aurantiaca.

We watched this Passiflora cf. tholozanii for a little bit, but no hummers came in to it during our stay. When I was here in June three years ago, there was a lek of Great-billed Hermits in this same spot.

This amazing, huge wasp nest was very high in a tree.

The best find along this trail was an Ocellated Poorwill that I flushed when I stepped a few meters off the main trail to try to see a large woodpecker that was hammering away in a big tree but masked from every perspective by the mid-story vegetation. I saw the bird briefly as it flew off, and looked down to find these two eggs right next to my foot.

When we returned about ½ hour later, the bird had returned, but I had real difficulty finding it while looking from the main trail even though I knew where to look. Once I spotted it, I looked away and tried to describe its location, and suddenly I couldn’t find it again. What a master of camouflage! As for the quetzal yesterday, I put my camera on my tripod and used a full 1-second exposure to get this photo.

I did not take much of a break after lunch. It’s hot – in the upper 90’s°F – but that’s when many butterflies are most readily found. This amazing hairstreak Arcas imperialis was right behind the leaders’ dorm.

This skipper Jemedia hospita was in front of the dorm door.

Yet another eighty-eight, this Callicore texa was roosting by the restaurant.

This is Melanis electron, Electron Pixie, a metalmark.

A couple of us took a mid-afternoon walk down a trail, which can be very quiet, but we surprised a group of Spix's Guans in the dense bamboo by the trail.

We also had a cooperative group of White-whiskered Spider Monkeys in the fruiting fig trees.

The whole group then gathered for a late afternoon vigil in the open habitat of the Secret Garden, where we had great views of Golden-winged Parakeet, Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher, Gray-crowned Flycatcher and others. I got a photo of small scrub-hairstreak which I later identified as Strymon astyocha.

Then there are the fun things that show up at the common area, where the bar, restaurant, and library are located. A young birder and his father from Israel arrived today and showed me this silk moth, Rhescyntis sp., that came to one of the lights.

This hawkmoth Pachysphinx ficus was roosting on the ceiling in the restaurant.


The excitement of the evening was my catching this Long-furred Mouse-Opossum, Micourea demararae, which had taken up a roost behind the small refrigerator behind the bar. Everyone gathered around to look at it before I let it go about 50 meters down the trail into the forest. Little did I know that it actually wanted to be in the bar – a reliable source of water during this very dry time of year. The bartender João Paulo told me it came back an hour later!

Day 3 at Cristalino Jungle Lodge – Tower I, the Saleiro, and Moths Galore

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August 6, 2015

We had a very full day today – and I took far too many photos. So I’ll have to keep the captions short on this one. We started the day on the second level of Tower I. At eye-level here is the canopy of a Zanthoxylum tree (probably Z. rhoifolium), in perfect fruit right now – and it was almost never completely free of birds while we were here. The most amazingly cooperative birds were a pair of White-browed Purpletufts, and I caught one just as it took off, showing its namesake.


And here’s a few other birds I got photographs of here:
Dusky-chested Flycatcher

Purple Honeycreeper

Scarlet Macaws

Southern Scrub-Flycatcher

Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher

Yellow-margined Flycatcher

We then walked the Saleiro loop, and when we arrived at the saleiro (“salt lick,” actually a mud wallow with slightly saline soil), a herd of White-lipped Peccaries were starting to come in. They first spooked away, but when we climbed the little observation platform, they came in, perhaps up to 80 individuals.


After they departed, we enjoyed watching the many butterflies taking advantage of the moisture and salts left behind.

Adelpha epione, a sister with no orange band

Baeotus aeilus, Amazon Beauty

Heading back to the lodge for lunch, I flushed this tiny metalmark, Sarota lasciva.

And also flushed was this Rufescent Tiger-Heron from a small puddle of water in a forest stream that is normally totally dry this time of year. I was amazed it still had water in it this late in the dry season.

This click beetle (family Elateridae) appears to be Semiotus distinctus. It often comes to the fermented fruit that we have put out for butterflies, and that’s what it was on here.

Our local guide and my friend Jorge spotted this snake lying across the trail; it appears to probably be Philodryas viridissimus, a type of rear-fanged colubrid that could deliver a dangerous bite.

After lunch I went back on the trail with my friend Claudia who had spotted this dead weevil with a pathogenic fungus growing out of it. Susanne Sourell has already identified the fungus for me as Ophiocordyceps curculionum, but this asexual fruiting stage also has been giving a separate scientific name, Hymenostilbe sp.

I checked the puddle parties on my own finding this Starry Night Cracker (Hamadryas laodamia) female.

This gorgeous lemon-colored caterpillar had me wishing I were here for a few weeks so I could rear it to adulthood.

This huge, strange brushfoot had me totally confounded. It is Napeocles jucunda, so very unlike any other butterfly, and the only member of its genus. Apparently it only very rarely comes to mud.

In the afternoon the whole group set out for a delightful boat ride up river. Just up from our lodge was this juvenile Great Black Hawk.

We stayed until after dark, seeing a Great Potoo and countless Cuvier's Dwarf Caimans.

After dinner, I wasn’t nearly ready to go to bed. I checked the moth sheet and saw two odd but tiny things. One is this strange planthopper of some kind, perhaps a nymphal stage of a fulgorid?

The other was this moth that appears to mimic a small net-winged beetle.

And there was one large visitor, this sphinx month Xylophanes pluto.

I also checked the lights on the walkway to the floating deck, where I found another green sphinx moth, Eumorpha capronnieri.

I also found a silk moth, Therinia sp.

Heading to the boat ramp, I spotted a scorpion on the side of a tree trunk; This may be Tityus strandi.


Then I found another, this speckled one more resembling Tityus silvestrus though I’m far from certain that that is the correct name.


Finally, I was amazed at the variety but lack of numbers of pyraloid moths on the beach. It seemed there was just one each of at least nine species here, all of which may remain unidentified for some time.









Cristalino Day 4 – Ariosto Umbrellabirds and a Seven-mammal Night Walk

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August 7, 2015

We started at dawn this morning with a boat ride down to the mouth of the Cristalino River then downstream on the Teles Pires River to Ariosto Island. We got out at a random-looking steep beach, quietly clambered up into the short forest, walked about 20 seconds and stood there. Within about 15 minutes we were looking up at an Amazonian Umbrellabird with its crest fully extended over its bill. Another 3 or 4 were in the branches in other directions, some only briefly visible. It was great to see such an amazing bird at close range.

We then visited the nearby sandy islets where Ladder-tailed Nightjar nests, and we flushed one off her two eggs. Large-billed Terns were also nesting there, and Black-collared Swallow was found with little difficulty over the rocky rapids just across the channel.
Ladder-tailed Nightjar

Ladder-tailed Nightjar

We then walked a very quiet forest trail through igapóforest, a seasonally flooded forest on poor soils. We did get glimpses of a Zimmer’s Tody-Tyrant (a specialist of this habitat) and great views of a pair of White-flanked Antwrens. It was getting hot in the canopy, and this is when the fancy hairstreaks come to the forest floor. This big one is a Theritas sp., perhaps not identifiable with certainty.
Theritas hairstreak

It was surprising to see a frog active in mid-day. This Osteocephalus sp. tree frog bounded right through the middle of our group and tried to blend in on this tree trunk.
Osteocephalus sp.

At the boat ramp before heading back to the lodge, I took photos of the skippers coming to the wet sand. This is Carrhenes santes, I think a new record for the lodge.
Carrhenes santes

This is Ebrietas anacreon, the Common Bentwing.
Ebrietas anacreon

Every late morning a dozen or more Dusky-billed Parrotlets gather on the bank of the Cristalino River right by the lodge, and this morning we stopped for a photo op.
Dusky-billed Parrotlet

While most of my group took naps for the afternoon, I did my usual round of mid-day butterfly puddle party checks, as try to re-find a pair of Crested Owls that had been found on a day roost down one of the trails a couple days earlier.

This Callicore pygas, Pygas Eighty-eight was by the boat ramp.
Callicore pygas

This Neographium thyastes, Orange Kite-Swallowtail, is one of the scarcer members of the family.
Neographium thyastes

On the trail to where I did not see the owls I stopped for this Colobura dirce, Dirce Beauty.
Colobura dirce

This metalmark is a Detritivora sp., probably not identifiable to species with just a photo.
Detritivora sp.

This hairstreak is apparently Michaelus joseph, probably a new one for the lodge.
Michaelus joseph

This planthopper in the family Derbidae was on a tree trunk.
Derbidae

I flushed this moth from the same tree, and it appears to be a Crambid.

I found this butterfly chrysalis next to the trail, but I guess I’ll never know what kind of butterfly it will become.

The group’s late afternoon outing was to Tower II, which typically quiet, but we managed to see a few things, such as this Black-bellied Cuckoo.
Black-bellied Cuckoo

Today was Carolyn’s 46th birthday, and the lodge kitchen baked this cake for her. The food here has been astoundingly great.

For the group I offered a night walk, first starting on the floating deck, then moving to the rocky shore to look at fish, and then a short walk down a forest trail.

This moth is probably Eulepidotis viridissimus, found coming to the lights on the wooden boardwalk to the boat dock.
Eulepidotis viridissimus

The closest matching photo for this moth is Rosema maximepuncta, a member of the family Notodontidae.
Rosema maximepuncta

In the same area, attracted to the boardwalk lights, was this male Hamadryas laodamia, Starry Night Cracker.
Hamadryas laodamia

This rather short-winged moth with oddly-shaped antenna might be in the obscure family Mimallonidae.

I then set out to check the moth sheet that is a short distance into the forest, first seeing this tree frog, Scinax ruber, on the deck by the restaurant.
Scinax ruber

There wasn’t much at the sheet, but I did take a photo of this cicada.

This moth on the ground nearby appears to be in the genus Gorgone.
Gorgone

There were some cool things down the trail to make it interesting enough, such as this Odontomachus sp., a trapjaw ant.
Odontomachus sp.,

I spotted this Pyraloid moth on the tower.

With the help of my ultraviolet flashlight, I spotted this Tityus sp. scorpion
Tityus sp.


It looks very different with my LED headlamp.

Tityus sp.

One fungus I spotted in amongst the leaves was this Xylaria sp., which appears to have a second fungus, a mold, growing around the base of it.
Xylaria sp.


But this evening biggest excitement came from the mammals – I had six or seven species, though not all identified, and only two photographed. It’s a good night to see just one mammal in this forest. It started with the Azara’s Night Monkeys right after dinner by the restaurant. Then with the small part of my group interested in a short night walk, we spotted a spiny rat (not a true rat but more closely related to porcupines), followed some unidentifiable tiny mouse by the river bank. The group headed to bed while I continued on the trail and found two Nine-banded Armadillos.
Nine-banded Armadillo

A bit farther down the trail, I spotted the eye shine of a Kinkajou high in a tree. Then something walking in the forest, crunching leaf litter got closer and closer, and I could eventually see it was a South American Tapir! It proceeded to approach the trail and cross it not 5 yards in front of me, the closest I've ever been to one. Another tapir was right behind it, but it never did come out so boldly.


I then glimpsed yet another unknown species of mouse bounding away on the ground, saw another Kinkajou high overhead, and then heard the telltale falling rain of debris from above indicating a foraging Southern Tamandua. I managed a grainy picture of at least this critter. What a night!
Southern Tamandua

I was back in my room at 11:50 p.m., but only that early because I knew I had to get up early the next day. Who knows what I would have seen if I had continued into the morning hours.

Cristalino Day 5 – The Serra and Lots of Moths

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August 8, 2015

This morning we did the steep climb up to the overlook on the Serra, a dome of granite rock that rises above the rainforest. We were lucky to be there when a small fig was in fruit right next to the overlook – several tanagers including Opal-rumped and Bay-headed gave us extended views. The view of the forest below is also stunnning, and we had a hard time tearing ourselves away from it.

The local guides discovered this Common Potoo along the trail, apparently on a nest, as it has been here for several days.
Common Potoo

We finally departed for the cooler rainforest trails when we began to see the first soaring raptors, such as this Hook-billed Kite.
Hook-billed Kite

Before we got back on the boats to return to the lodge, I decided to try to show my group what a larval antlion looks like. Everyone knows the little sand pit traps they make, but few have actually seen the creature. You have to scoop up all the sand and let it sift between your fingers while looking for the one thing that isn’t a grain of sand.
ant lion larva

Right over the common area of the lodge right after lunch was this brilliant King Vulture.
King Vulture

And shortly thereafter by the guides’ dorm was this juvenile Gray-lined Hawk.
Gray-lined Hawk

My daily check of the wet sand by the boats was productive.

Emesis mandana, a metalmark.
Emesis mandana

Marpesia orsilochus, one of the commoner daggerwings here
Marpesia orsilochus

Historis odius, Orion Cecropion. The caterpillars of this butterfly feed on cecropia leaves.
Historis odius

This tiny wasp was guarding her small paper nest built atop a leaf on a small tree (a Moluccan Roseapple) by the dorm. She kept turning to face the camera, ready to sting at a moment’s notice, so I had to take a lot of photos and maneuver slowly to get this profile. Only after I took the photo did I realize that eggs and pupae were visible in open cells.

We took an afternoon boat ride down the Cristalino River to the Manakin Trail, here the group gathering in the shade before loading into the boat.

And right below them was a pair of foraging Capybaras.

Bird highlights on the short Manakin Trail were Bronzy Jacamar and Amazonian Streaked-Antwren, and we then boarded our boat for our last return to the lodge.

This evening after dinner, there were only a few insects on the moth sheet a short ways down the trail, lit by a weak fluorescent bulb.

A grasshopper in the genus Copiocera.
Copiocera sp.

A skipper, Dubiella sp.
Dubiella sp.

And several geometrid moths (inch worms). This is probably a Chloropteryx sp.
Chloropteryx sp.

This geometer may be Iridopsis or a closely related genus.

And two whose genera I have no idea:


But the most diversity was at the lights along the boardwalk and steps down to the floating deck.

What looks exactly like a dead leaf is actually a praying mantis.

Colla sp., a Bombycid silk moth
Colla sp.

Sosxetra grata, Walker’s Moth, an erebid
Sosxetra grata, Walker’s Moth

Perigramma famulata, a geometrid
Perigramma famulata

Cresera sp., an arctiine erebid
Cresera sp.

Possibly an Hapigia sp., a prominent (family Notodontidae)
Hapigia sp.,

Possibly a noctuid

Yet another pyraloid (see my blog from two days ago)

A tiny artciine

My guess is family Lasiocampidae on this one.

This one has the shape of many geometers but is quite possibly in the family Erebidae.


And many more typical geometers. The latter two are also probably Iridopsis, the first one a more clearly marked individual of the same species on the sheet above.





Cristalino Departure – Loads of Lapwings and a Warm Pantanal Welcome

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August 9, 2015

Alas, our day has come to depart my beloved Cristalino Jungle Lodge, much too soon. We did have some nice morning birding hours before our scheduled 10:00 a.m. departure. The most exiting few minutes was an enthusiastic mobbing response to my Amazonian Pygmy-Owl whistle and recording, which included this Amethyst Woodstar male.
Amethyst Woodstar

Our only Yellow-bellied Dacnis of the tour joined the mob.
Yellow-bellied Dacnis

And before we left, someone spotted this huge buprestid beetle high in one of the trees. My guess was that it was about 3 to 3.5 cm long (just over 2 inches).

On the wet sand by the boat were two eighty-eights in the same genus for good comparison: Diaethria candrena
Diaethria candrena

and Diaethria clymena.
Diaethria clymena

Here we are in the boat ready for departure.

Birding was largely over for the day, but we had to make a stop for this huge group of 78 Southern Lapwings in the ranchland on the way back to Alta Floresta. Apparently they will nest colonially in certain situations.


Later in the day, we flew to Cuiabá, greeted our driver José, and boarded the bus for the 3-hour drive to Pouso Alegre in the northern Pantanal. With a planned arrival right at dark, I decided we would not make any stops, despite the huge numbers of photogenic water birds and caiman along the roadside. Our timing was perfect: as José slowed down to make the turn into our lodge’s gate, a Giant Anteater crossed the Transpantaneira Highway right in front of the bus. What a nice welcome!

The Pantanal – Largest Freshwater Wetlands in the World

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August 13, 2015

Wow, what an amazing four days we’ve had in the Pantanal! After teasing out species after species in mindboggling diversity at Cristalino, here our minds have been boggled by shear numbers, size, and beauty of the wildlife.

After a day of driving and birding at Pouso Alegre and roadsides, we set out early on our second morning on the Cuiabá River for two full days of searching for jaguar. Of course there’s lots of other things to see, and maybe the distraction of all kept us from seeing a jaguar that morning.

A Black Skimmer of the locally resident subspecies intercedensis preparing to breed on the recently exposed sand banks. The first rains won’t start for another month, and water levels won’t rise for another 2 or 3, so there’s plenty of time to rear a family.
Black Skimmer intercedens

Black-capped Donacobius, the sole member of the family Donacobiidae, is a common sight in the riverside vegetation. The vocal sacs on the side of the throat are more like a Sooty Grouse than any other passerine.
Black-capped Donacobius

We saw several Black-collared Hawks, but only this one, intent on its armored catfish, let us approach so closely.
Black-collared Hawk

Cocoi Heron is the Great Blue replacement species here.
Cocoi Heron

This is a juvenile Great Black Hawk.
Great Black Hawk

Large-billed Terns breed alongside the skimmer, Yellow-billed Terns, Collared Plovers, and Pied Lapwings.
Large-billed Tern

Monk Parakeets build nests independent of nest cavities, unique in this regard among the world’s parrots.
Monk Parakeet

The strange Southern Screamer, distantly related to ducks and geese.
Southern Screamer

Wattled Jacana is surprisingly not a very common bird along the Cuiabá River. Maybe too many of them get eaten by caiman.
Wattled Jacana

Yellow-billed Cardinal is everpresent in the riverside vegetation.
Yellow-billed Cardinal

The biomass of Yacare Caiman, Caiman yacare (misleadingly called Paraguayan Caiman on some lists), is impossible to overestimate.
Yacare Caiman

Here are some Yacare Caiman babies, guarded by the mother, barely visibile in the water.
Yacare Caiman

Marsh Deer aren’t rare, but we never see very many.
Marsh Deer

There are two species of water-hyacinth here. The bigger one is the native Eichhornia azurea, Anchored Water-hyacinth, and where it is native, it is not invasive. Annual flooding cycles, as well as multitudes of symbionts keep it in check.
Eichhornia azurea

Inhabiting the water-hyacinths was this gorgeous dragonfly, Diastatops intensa.
Diastatops intensa

For some reason, this Erythemis peruviana, Flame-tailed Pondhawk, decided to land on someone’s wrist.
Erythemis peruviana, Flame-tailed Pondhawk

On our first afternoon boating, we got word of a jaguar sighting, and we went racing the direction of the other boats. The first thing we saw was this.

Then this:
Jaguar

Then this:
Jaguar

We later learned from Joe and Robbie’s friend Paul Donahue that this particular jaguar has been dubbed Ruth.

The 120+ people in 20 boats was part of the spectacle, as we watched the jaguar patrol the river bank for 30 minutes. Clearly there is no dress code here.

Later the next morning we joined another crowd to view yet a different jaguar.
Jaguar

Finally, later that same morning our boatman spotted what Joe called “our own  private Jaguar.” We watched it for a couple minutes before she got up and disappeared into the dense riverside vegetation.
Jaguar

Here’s a very happy jaguar watcher.

We spent a good amount of time in drier habitats along roadsides in the Pantanal as well. The tree Vochysia divergens, known locally as Cambara,́ was in full bloom. It’s apparently an invasive plant here though native to areas of Brazil not far away; it’s not clear to me what kept it from being native in this part of Brazil until only recently.
Vochysia divergens

Here is a closeup of the flowers. A member of the tropical family Vochysiaceae, it’s quite unlike anything we have in North America.
Vochysia divergens

The rather obscure Fuscous Flycatcher reminds one a bit of our Empidonax.
Fuscous Flycatcher

Jabiru is a huge stork, and birds on nests are an iconic sight in the Pantanal.
Jabiru

Campo Flicker is a much more coloful relative of our Northern Flicker.
Campo Flicker

Cattle Tyrants follow cattle, but also associate with the Capybaras and other animals, picking off ectoparasites and insects flushed by them as they forage.
Cattle Tyrant

Long-tailed Ground Dove is rather local in the drier scub in areas of slightly higher elevation.
Long-tailed Ground Dove

Peach-fronted Parakeet is common, but to see one snacking on the sweet nectar of Tabebuia flowers is not a daily sight.
Peach-fronted Parakeet

The Red-crested Cardinal is rather shaped like our Northern Cardinal, but is unrelated and a member of the tanager family.
Red-crested Cardinal

Rufous Casiornis, a tyrant flycatcher, is also only in the drier woodlands.
Rufous Casiornis


On our last evening, a guide for another group went out of his way to run back to the restaurant to inform us of this Giant Anteater at the far end of the buildings at our lodge, Pouso Alegre.
Giant Anteater

Farewell to the Pantanal and Brazil

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August 14, 2015

We had one last morning of birding at our lodge, a working ranch called Pouso Alegre, before the drive back to Cuiabá and everyone’s flights back home.
Pouso Alegre

We first caught up with Red-billed Scythebill, a most improbable woodcreeper.
Red-billed Scythebill

Then these amorous Hyacinth Macaws began feeding each other, then later were audibly copulating for a few minutes. It’s that time of year.
Hyacinth Macaw

We said our goodbyes to the abundant Yacare Caiman.
Yacare Caiman


On the drive back to Cuiabá, an irresistible stop was demanded by this Capped Heron, a species which had evaded the perfect photo op until just now.
Capped Heron

Marvelous Mato Grosso WINGS Tour: Chapada dos Guimarães

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August 17, 2015

I had just two nights in Cuiabá after my tour, not nearly enough time to catch up on emails, process photos, and do post-tour materials. But I did find a place to get my hair and beard cut a 15-minute walk from the hotel, and paid daily visits to the ATM to stock up on reaisfor the upcoming tour. All the participants arrived on time, as did Fabrice Schmitt, my co-leader for this group of 11 participants for the next two weeks.

Here’s Fabrice Schmitt, my friend and co-leader, and one of South America’s most adventuresome and accomplished birders.
Fabrice Schmitt

We’ve had a great start in the Chapada dos Guimarães, just like the last tour had, but distinctly different. Last time we had a super cooperative Collared Crescentchest and had to practically beat the Chapada Flycatchers away with our tripods. This time the same crescentchest wasn’t so cooperative, and we couldn’t buy a Chapada Flycatcher. In fact, yesterday afternoon we found the more widespread Suiriri Flycatchers (Campo Suiriri), a very close relative, and my first one here.

But White-banded Tanagers were even more cooperative this time, such as this one on a fence.
White-banded Tanager

This Campo Flicker was one of a pair that greeted us yesterday morning on our pre-breakfast outing to the short scrub that harbors so many specialties.
Campo Flicker

We also had Curl-crested Jays here (no sign of them on the last tour), as well as Spot-breasted Puffbird. Every outing is different, one reason we all continue to watch birds.

Because of the timing of flights, we had a bit more time on our hotel grounds at Pousada do Parque, and we had this silent Planalto Slaty-Antshrike on the first afternoon’s walk.
Planalto Slaty-Antshrike

A pair of Tropical Screech-Owls are nesting in a cavity below eye-level in a tree in the garden, and we could peer in and see the female with at least one large chick. But after dinner last night, this one was by the restaurant, presumably hunting rodents coming to the papaya remnants left by birds below the tree. It allowed us to approach within a couple feet.
Tropical Screech-Owl

But this Tropical Screech-Owl was a quarter mile away this morning, undoubtedly a different territory. I had used a recording I made two years ago in the Pantanal to try to stir up a mob, as there were a few flycatchers and a calling Band-tailed Manakin we hadn’t seen yet. But before long, this larger bird flew in abruptly but silently at eye-level and perched next to the road, just within a few feet of the group. We were flabbergasted.
Tropical Screech-Owl

On another walk we had this Philaethria dido, Southern Green Longwing.
Philaethria dido, Southern Green Longwing

And this Amethyst Woodstar perched up during a session of Ferruginous Pymgy-Owl imitations (which also brought in a Ferruginous Pymgy-Owl).
Amethyst Woodstar

Oddly, the Crab-eating Foxes which were so easy on the last tour were very elusive this time, but I did at least get a photo of the Cavia aperea, Brazilian Guinea Pigs, that forage on the grass by the pool.
Cavia aperea, Brazilian Guinea Pig

And we found out about this Coendou prehensilis, a Brazilian Porcupine, that frequents the coconut palm by the pool but appears only after 10:00 each evening.
Coendou prehensilis, Brazilian Porcupine

I was excited to come across this Passiflora mansoi in bloom, the first time I’ve seen one since my first visit here in 2006. It’s a very strange passionflower in being a slender, scraggly woody shrub with weak stems, nothing like the tendril-clad, climbing vines of so many other species. I suspect it’s very common here but blooms only with recent rains which become common only later in the year.
Passiflora mansoi

On our full day here yesterday we stayed until sunset on the Cavernas de Aroe Jari road, where Greater Rheas and Red-legged Seriemas continued to be reliable.


On our way to the airport this morning – we’re headed to Cristalino Jungle Lodge – we made one last stop in the Chapada where one of our group spotted this Tropidurus torquatus, an Amazon Lava Lizard.
Tropidurus torquatus, Amazon Lava Lizard.

Marvelous Mato Grosso WINGS Tour: Arrival in Alta Floresta and Transfer to Cristalino Jungle Lodge

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August 19, 2015

Our punctual flight yesterday arrived in Alta Floresta with great views of the city below. This was one of the first areas of the vast Amazonian rainforest that fell to government incentives to settle in the 1970’s. Intact rainforest is still only a short drive away, fortunately.
Alta Floresta

We had an afternoon to bird around the grounds of the Floresta Amazonica Hotel very close to the airport, but the pair of Harpy Eagles that nested in the forest fragment here at least three times since 2005 seem to have moved on. As I did for my last group, I quickly found an antlion larva. Despite its being so abundant and widespread, with nearly everyone familiar with the pitfall traps they make, surprisingly few people have actually seen the actual animal.
antlion, Myrmeleontidae

A late evening attempt to bring in a Great Potoo that I heard just before dinner behind the hotel turned in to a short walk down the forest trail to look for scorpions with my scorpion light. Finally, I spotted this tiny thick-tailed scorpion, resembling Tityus silvestris in its speckled appearance, but lacking other field marks and most certainly not that species.
Tityus cf. silvestris
Tityus cf. silvestris

We also saw a Crested Owl and this ctenid spider, related to the highly venomous wandering spiders.
Cetnidae

This morning we birded our way to Cristalino Jungle Lodge before lunch, stopping for the Red-bellied Macaw show at the usual buritizal – a grove of Mauritia flexuosa palms on the road north. We then made a couple stops on the road through Cristalino’s forest patch on the west side of the Teles Pires river. One of our first birds was rather a surprise, this Rose-breasted Chat singing just a couple feet above the ground in a thicket of dry weeds and vines right next to the road. I’d only ever seen them in dense, green vine tangles, difficult to see overhead on dark forest trails.
Rose-breasted Chat

Our last bit of birding before lunch was done from the boat as we crossed to the east side of the Teles Pires River and then up the Cristalino. This Capped Heron posed nicely for photos, unlike on my last tour.
Capped Heron

We also had this Gray-necked Wood-Rail, boldly foraging in broad daylight (which they do commonly in the Pantanal, but no so much here).
Gray-necked Wood-Rail

We got lucky with this pair of Lutra longicaudis, Neotropical River Otters, one crunching on a bony armored catfish (plecostomus to pisciculturists).
Lutra longicaudis, Neotropical River Otter

Arriving at the lodge, I was pleased to see that my efforts to maintain a puddle party during the last tour were still effective – Statira, Straight-lined, Apricot, and Orange-barred Sulphurs.

Upon arrival, the head of hospitality gives the group an orientation talk while they enjoy a welcome drink of a local fruit juice.

In the afternoon we took a relaxing boat on the river downstream.

We watched sunset on the Teles Pires before stopping on shore for a very cooperative Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl and heading upstream with spotlights to look for nightlife on the banks of the Cristalino, where we spotted a Great Potoo.

Back at the lodge, all the guests were fascinated with this line of Eciton burchellii, Swarming Army Ants , crossing the trail between the rooms and the common area. We weren’t certain exactly what was going on, why so many of the ants had dedicated themselves to making a barricade on either side of what would normally be a single file line of ants relocating the colony. My guess is that they perceived the well-swept portion of the trail a dangerous crossing of sorts.
Eciton burchellii

Meanwhile at the moth sheet…

I had written the lodge management about the possibility of putting up a moth sheet in a better location (open to the sky on one side rather than deep in the forest on a trail), and using a brighter light with shorter wavelengths, rather than the dim fluorescent bulb they had earlier in the month. As it turns out, Edson Endrigo had arrived with a group he was guiding with exactly such a light, and with my suggestion they relocated the sheet at the edge of the clearing with the majority of the guest rooms. It worked like a charm, and there were as many moths tonight as there were during my entire week earlier in the month.

This big sphinx moth is the recognizable Pachylia darceta.
Pachylia darceta

This is a Megalopyge sp., one of those flannel moths with caterpillars you shouldn’t touch.
Megalopyge sp., moth

I’d like to think that some day there will be a field guide to all these pretty little pyraloid moths.

Pyraloidea, moth

There are a lot more photos available online of arctiine moths, so this one I was able to identify as Trichromia atta.
Trichromia atta, Erebidae, Arctiinae

This is also an arctiine moth, Uranophora walkeri.
Uranophora walkeri, Erebidae, Arctiinae


This one I recognized as an Acraga sp., family Dalceridae. The caterpillars of these are rarely seen jewels, looking like colorful collections of transparent glass beads.
Acraga sp., Dalceridae
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